My house has sliding stanley single pane aluminum windows , I would like to
replace them with wooden double pane windows.
Replacement ones presumably would slide like the old ones a la sliding glass
doors . Only problem I cant imagine a wood window sliding in a wood frame
with any efficiency . I need pointers and some source of info on making such
windows .Any help appreciated ....mjh
Mike, Do you mean multi-light panes or dual-glazed or both.
When I made the new windows for my home. I made them out of vertical grain
fir. It was a PITA. I would suggest using cypress. The mutton bars were
the hardest to fit. Mill all of the basic stock square first, then the
mortises them mill the final shape.
Mill the top and bottom wider as well as the sides. (Stiles & Rails) Build
the windows then cut to final side after fitting into the window casing.
(Extra wide & tall if using existing casings).
The standard window sash bit kits are made for single glazed windows. I have
not found a source for dual glazed yet. All I did was mill up the parts
then cut them deeper with a dado bit. Careful to leave enough stock for the
inside detail. I had a local window company make the dual glazed panes to
size, then I glazed them in.
As mine were double hung, I did not worry about sliding, that's my next
project. I plan on building them essentially the same way but have the ride
on a stainless bar inset into the window sill and a small piece of Teflon
striping dadoed into the bottom of the window itself.
I never thought I'd be giving *you* advice about woodworking, but here
Instead of horizontal sliding windows (I assume, given, your statement
about sliding doors), I would make casement windows (hinged and
opening like a door) because they are much easier to weatherstrip. The
weatherstripping on sliding windows doesn't seal very well, and wears
out quickly. Believe me on this - living in the Yukon,
weatherstripping is something I need to be very concerned about. In
any case, most of the heat loss (or gain, as the case might be) is
through infiltration around the sash rather than transmission through
the glass. IMNSHO, there is almost no point in using double or triple
glazing if the sash is not properly weatherstripped.
I have not seen wooden horizontal sliders in years as they are no
longer used (AFAIK) in Canada. The only solution I can think of is to
use plastic tracks with the attached fuzzy weatherstripping.
However, screens on casement windows will be PITA and require the use
of specialised hardware (crank openers, friction hinges, latches) that
can be operated behind the screen, as the screen needs to be on the
inside if the window opens to the outside. Check out local window
manufacturers, they might give you sources or sell you the hardware,
especially if you are buying lots of glass from them.
You might want to get a copy of John Birchard, "Make you own
Handcrafted Doors and Windows", Sterling, 1988 ISBN 0-8069-6544-4. A
little thin on windows and a lot of stuff on joinery (pretty much the
same as doors, about which I believe you may have a slight inkling),
but some good stuff nevertheless.
Also, make sure you know the thickness of your glass panes before you
decide on the size of the rebate, sticking and stops for the windows.
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