I need to replace a fixed double insulated picture window because the
wood frame has rotted. The glass is brand new (the glass company did
not notice the rotting frame - don't ask - I would never use this
company again). It is probably cheaper and easier to replace the
entire unit rather than removing the frame and finding a replacement
frame only. I would greatly appreciate instructions on how to remove
and reinstall the sash. From what I understand, you simply score the
edges, remove the moulding, and pop the window out. Is it really that
"easy"? How do I get the nails out of the moulding to remove the
moulding? Do I add a sealant to the edges when I install the new sash
to keep it well sealed?
Please reply to snipped-for-privacy@HOTMAIL.com with instructions. Thanks!
Can't answer your other questions on window removal, but I've removed a
lot of (c. 1920)molding that was to be reused. Don't attempt to pry the
molding away from the wall or other trim - you'll ding and gouge it as
well as likely split a fair amount of it.
The better way is to take a nail set of the appropriate diameter and
drive the existing nails further into and through the moulding. Yes, it
can make the nail hole larger, but that's a far sight easier to fix than
repairing, replacing and matching molding that's split.
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
On 17 Oct 2003 10:28:22 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (R.K.) wrote:
Sorry, not going to reply via email.
A stationary sash in a wood framed window can be held in place by
moulding only, or by L shaped screwed on clips under the moulding, or
in some cases it may be screwed from the outside of the frame into the
sash. A decent quality wood window will use the clips under the
moulding, because a stationary sash picture unit is nothing more than
a operating sash window without the hardware needed to make it
operate. It should have the same weather-stripping between the frame
and sash as an operable unit so additional sealant shouldn't be
necessary. As another person stated, driving the moulding nails
through is a much better alternative to prying the moulding off.
If the frame is not too badly rotted, you can remove the sash and
repair the frame using a Minwax product made just for this purpose.
You won't notice the splinters in the ladder of success,
unless you are sliding down.
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