Why Don't Manufacturers Flatten the Backs of Edged Tools

Anyone here used the Diamond Reference Lapping Plate (DRLP) from Shapton? At $489 it's not cheap, but I've read good things about Shapton here on the wreck. For a mere $1773.89 you could have the full lineup - 120, 220, 320, 1000, 1500, 2000, 5000, 8000, 150000 and

30000 grit Professional series ceramic waterstones PLUS the DRLP.

That might make lapping your chisel backs a little easier!

JP

Reply to
Jay Pique
Loading thread data ...

Hi Ed.

A flat back and proper honing of my Marples Blue Chip "Made a big difference" even though I wasted a day giving them a tune up.

I bought the Marple's because I liked the feel in my hand, and the handle fit well when using both of my hands. After the tune up, they make a reasonably good paring chisel and for cleaning up joints, they work just fine "for me". So I'll get my monies worth out of them, and eventually buy a better set.

However, I would have gladly paid an extra $20 for a flat backed chisel or Iron.

The handles on the Stanley sets I've seen, look more like screw drivers, and that's why I had no interest in their product. The higher end sets that looked like they had a nice comfortable handle, were out of my price range.

Like my plane - someday I'll buy a better set. But I still would have paid extra if the manufacturer had flattened the backs

Pat

Reply to
Pat

At that price I think I'd hire someone to do it for me.

Tim Douglass

formatting link

Reply to
Tim Douglass

Have any of you granite lappers ever considered that you crush the fibers more when using the chisel than the thousandths you're fussing about? Any want to bet you can trim to within thousandths of any line you mark? Lap away the wire edge when sharpening for best edge, and go. You can't work to the tolerances you're talking about in wood.

Reply to
George

lol... those two brands are already flat, but with grinding marks because neither company will spend the $$$ it takes to polish them. If you buy Hirsch and Two Cherries, those Germans go too far, polishing the backs to the point where they are so rounded it takes a lot of work to flatten them (yes I read about it).

Alex

Reply to
AArDvarK

the sharper the edge the less "crush". how accurately you can follow the line is a completely separate issue.

how many thousanths? I'll bet you $1000 I can hit a line within .050 every time.

I keep measuring tools that measure to .001 at hand in the shop. when necessary I *do* work to those tolerances. when not necessary I don't.

Reply to
bridger

yep. polishing and grinding are two different things. if they'd grind to 600 grit instead of 80 grit or so it would sure make my life easier....

nowdays a lot of tool makers linish as the final step. it gets nice and shiny, but rounds the corners...

Reply to
bridger

Maybe you're right, but I figure the sharper the better! I wasn't really discussing tolerances - just tossing out some expensive dreams about a pretty high-end sharpening system. I've heard that after using the 30000 grit shapton stone you actually have to hold the chisel *up* to prevent it from dropping right through the other side of the mortise and ruining your piece.

JP

Reply to
Jay Pique

Jay, we need to talk...

;)

Cheers Nuno Souto snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com.au.nospam

Reply to
Noons

Indeed. You're not a venture capitalist are you?

JP

Reply to
Jay Pique

Jay Pique apparently said,on my timestamp of 10/08/2004 9:24 PM:

No, but you need council! :)

Reply to
Noons

Reality sets in when I start bootsrtrapping with exactly sixty-three dollars forty-two cents in the bank.

JP

********************** Anyone got a brick?! One lousy brick?
Reply to
Jay Pique

Aye! Know that feeling only too well....

I'm told they work wonders as abrasives for sharpening!

Cheers Nuno Souto snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com.au.nospam

Reply to
Noons

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.