I've been using wet/dry sandpaper. It's a tedious/time consuming job and
seems to wear out the paper fairly fast. I see Norton has a flattening
stone. I wonder if they're more efficient. Any suggestions on how best to
get this job done? Thanks..
I havea trueing stone that I go from Lee Valley, It works great. You
can also use a Nagura stone to true up your stone.
Both still involve some work to true un the stone. The stone I have
does not show wear after a year of use.
Or you can use a diamond stone to flatten it. I do it under running
water to keep the water stone from sticking to the diamond stone.
It's easier to flatten the stones after every sharpening session than
to wait until the depressions are deeper.
I flatten my 220 grit coarse stone on one of those. The coarse stone is
then used to flatten the finer stones.
For quickie flattenings of my 4000 and 8000 stones, use I'll my diamond
plates if the coarse waterstone isn't handy. Just like sharpening,
I've found flattening to be easier if done often, before major work is
I've finally learned to deal with it ... thank gawd for the WS300! :)
What a difference it's made in keeping chisels and plane irons sharp without
fuss/muss and "waterstone" mess all over the bench/shop.
(Just had to throw that in) ... mainly because it so damn true!
Not to worry.. Even if you had a stainless steel sink, you wouldn't want to
be slurring up the kitchen counter. Trust me.. Its a territorial thing.
Try making beer on the kitchen stove or canning tuna.. same thing.. not
I learned that one at previous house.. New house has a fiberglass wash tub
basin/sink in the garage and I bought an outside propane burner for the
other.. Life is much better that way..
I have a Tormek too, Barry.. but flattening plane iron on side of Tormek
grinding wheel was never to successful for me. I do grind the initial plane
iron bevel on it and use it for carving, lathe tools and lots of other
things.. I'm glad to have it and it does make sharpening easier for other
tools.. You know I wonder just how sharp you really have to get tools.
There's probably a point at which sharper doesn't really matter.
Christopher Schwarz has this video DVD on sharpening scrapers. He's
polishing those puppy's on waterstones and doing all this stuff before
burnishing. I lent the DVD to a woodshop instructor and he thought it was
all nice but ended up still instructing students with just a mill file and
burnisher. At what point, I wonder, does it just become perfectionist
versus practical.. In other words, does an 8000 grit waterstone, for
example, really make a difference. I have one and use one, but wonder, does
it really make a difference for the average woodworker..
Like many other areas of life, the law of diminishing returns applies.
For straight-grained mahogany it's probably not necessary to be
super-sharp. When dealing with heavily figured wood with reversing
grain (or cutting end-grain in spruce/pine) it makes sense to get the
blade as sharp as possible.
Maybe I'm just a dumb wood abuser, but I use a piece of glass, about
11 x 14 inches, and I sprinkle some 90 grit carbide sand stuff on it
with water. The glass sits on the workbench top, so is mostly flat,
and it works great. The glass came from a cheap picture frame, the
sand from Rockler I think, not expensive. Anyway, just a minute or so
on each stone gives me a flat surface. Hope this helps.....
On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 07:56:13 -0700, "Jim Hall"
Concrete step outside the workshop. Same one I use for flatening
cuttlefish bones (for casting silver jewellery).
Wash it off afterwards. Waterstone slurry is slippery.
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