Don't think I've heard of anyone doing this, so I'm guessing there's a
I'm thinking of picking up a combo sander (likely 6x48 belt + 9" disk);
how would the disk work as a way to establish a primary bevel on either
chisels or plane irons?
I know rpm is going to be a factor -- I've looked at several combo
units; the rpm of the disk has either been 1720 or 3450; I would think
with care, I could avoid too much heat, especially with a 1720 rpm unit.
So, what else am I missing? Any thoughts, horror stories, or words of
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 19:28:27 +0000, John Thomas wrote:
Sharpening books mention belt sanders. If you have the combo, why would
you want to use the disk? Lacking a belt sander, I use a sanding disk in
my clamped electric drill to shape carving blades. It's ugly, but it does
work. I wouldn't touch a plane iron to the contraption, though.
You have heard of "Scary Sharp" ??? Well, with your
method, it's "Really scary to Sharpen" but I must
admit that my hoe(ho) and my axe(ax) get a little of
the old 6x48 from time to time.
Just be careful... You don't want to be flinging(throw)
any sharp tools at yourself during the operation.
Of course you will be wearing safety glasses during this.
John Thomas wrote:
I've been doing this for a long time. A belt sander is a fast way to really
screw up an edge, so that's why I use a suitable angle guide.
I have a 4"x36" combo with 6" discs. I drilled/tapped holes onto the side
of the platten for mounting an auxiliary table. I mount a plane blade or
chisel in a Lee Valley angle jig flummy, then I put the initial bevel on it
on a 100 grit belt. I find I rarely have heat problems, and can just about
leave the blade in contact with the belt continuously. On smaller edges
that heat up faster, a rocking sand-rest-sand-rest motion is sustainable
pretty much forever without overheating. I don't think I've burnt an edge
The auxiliary table isn't exactly in the same plane as the belt, and the
thickness of the belt, and the little hump where the seam is all conspire
to produce an angle that's a little off compared to the target. However,
it does the muscle work, and I can run through the rest of the grits (from
100 again up through 2,000) pretty quickly to put on a perfect mirror edge
that can cut the hair off a gnat's ass. The beauty of my system is that
the tool stays in the same angle guide throughout both phases of the
operation. It does introduce small errors, as I've said, but I feel like
these are easier to cope with than having two completely different angle
setups, and trying to keep both of them in sync.
I've been sharpening things this way for a pretty good while now, and it
works fine for me. With the sander you're talking about, it might work
even better. Larger belt, more surface area to dissipate heat. I would
guess. Motor speed and roller size could both add up to your sander
tearing up ground a lost faster than mine. YMMV. Caveat emptor.
Batteries not included. Not all parts included with all sets. Color and
finish may vary from those depicted here. Some assembly required. DANGER:
SHARP EDGES. The lacquer finish is not covered under warranty.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < email@example.com>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 19:28:27 +0000 (UTC), John Thomas
Badly. The variation in surface speed is too great across the width
of the disk, relative to the width of a plane iron.
The belt will work though.
Try the knifemaking group, rec.knives. Most professional knifemakers
are working with a slack-belt linisher.
If you use the unit for woodworking also, just be careful that sparks
from grinding metal don't ignite any sawdust. Otherwise, just use the
smae precautions against overheating the steel that you would use with
a regular grinder.
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