On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 9:56:10 AM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
Up until a few years ago I was involved in an activity that involved cutting
steel plates, anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2" thick. Some of the plates were up
to 12" wide.
Multiple (multiple) passes with an abrasive blade on a radial arm saw
worked great. With the steel clamped securely to the table, I could make
some very accurate cuts. I had jigs for some of the odd shaped pieces
that I needed. Multiple slow, shallow cuts were the trick.
I tried my miter saw with an abrasive blade for some of the smaller items
but the RAS did a much better job. I had much more control since the
height adjustment of the RAS determined the depth of cut and the speed was
determined by how fast I moved the blade across the material.
You just had to make sure that everything was secured properly. Keeping
track of where the sparks flew was important too. ;-)
That's a use I'd not have thought of or, if I did, I'd worry like crazy
about metal filings/dust winding up inside the motor. Did you take any
precautions against this?
I tore the crap out of an homeowner grade Skillsaw removing some 90 year
old maple flooring. Not sure if it was the ten coats of varnish and
grit that got sucked in or the remnants of the occasional nail I'd hit.
On Wednesday, October 28, 2015 at 10:08:06 AM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Actually, I was lucky enough to use a friend's RAS so it wasn't a
concern to me. ;-) I don't recall that he had modified the RAS in any
His garage was set up as a shop almost exclusively for working on Soap Box
Derby cars. We worked together as a team, making parts for our kid's cars.
This was back when fabricating parts was still allowed.
Here is the rear axle mounting system for my son's World Championship car:
The 4 piece axle mount was bolted to the large steel plate which was bolted
and epoxied to the wooden floorboard. (The axle itself is that 3/4" x 3/4"
bar running horizontally through the mount.) All of the parts for the
mount, including the large plate were cut on the RAS.
Here's a picture of the car itself. That little slit under the helmet is
all that my son could see through. Unless you looked straight along the
top of the car, you couldn't tell if he was in it or not.
Strange you should say that. The RAS can consistently cut at a certain
height but if your material differs in thickness slightly so will your
depth of cut. A TS will give you consistent depth control even with
different thickness material.
A tS is great for sheets and ripping. Cross cutting is difficult.
(try to crosscut a 15' 2x4.) Or make that a 4x4.
A RAS is great for cutoff and nominal sheet. Good for ripping.
So it depends on what you do. Make cabinets or other things.
On 10/30/2015 9:13 AM, Leon wrote:
Preaching to the choir. I have owned both, actually started with a RAS
and built furniture for 4~5 years with that RAS.
IMHO cross cutting on a TS is easier when cutting wide stock, and with a
sled probably easier. I think the most difficult part on a TS is
squaring the end of a 15' piece of what ever. Either way I cut with a
jigsaw to a manageable length and what I would do with a RAS also, you
still have to deal with long stock tipping after being cut.
Sometimes that's a problem but often a benefit. If you want to make a
box of a certain size, indexing off the outside is a benefit. The
problem with the RAS is that the arm is never rigid enough. There is
a lot of torque on the arm and it doesn't take much to throw the depth
Only if it's a cheap POS (which, unfortunately, many are).
I've never had the issue w/ the old Delta 16" nor would one have w/ an
Original Saw Company model or one of that ilk. Even the old 10" DeWalt
if set up properly is perfectly adequate for the task.
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