Posting from rec.crafts.metalworking as always.
2575) Hmm ... the angles on the tips suggest that it is to slide
over something, but the grain at the far end of the notch will
make it too weak to have much holding power.
At a guess -- it slides over something like the side panel of
a truck with a cross pin to bear in the flat surface of the fork
shown, where it should be strong enough.
2576) A combination -- an opener for capped glass bottles of beer (or
soft drinks as well, but the wrong brand), and a wrench to work
on either a valve or the width adjustment on old roller skates.
Given the beer label on it, I would suspect that it is intended
to work the valve on a CO2 tank to feed a beer dispenser.
2577) Looks like a valve for dumping the steam pressure on a steam
engine -- either a stationary one for powering a factory, or the
usual mobile one on rails. I think that it may also include a
pressure relief valve.
2578) Well ... obviously a key. Presumably the 'V' in the handle has
some significance, but I don't know it.
It could be the key to a tall clock case, or to a cedar chest
(hope chest), or something similar.
The 'V' suggests "Volvo", but it does not look like a key to an
automobile. Wrong style -- a warded lock, instead of pin or
I guess that it could fit an old style padlock.
2579) Another combination tool. Hatchet, hammer, nail puller, and
the hook opposite the hatchet blade may be for breaking into a
door -- so it perhaps is a fireman's tool.
I like the attachment of the blade to the shank. The impact of
using it as a hammer would tighten the fit rather than loosen
it. I would like to see the back side to see whether there is a
screw or nut to hold the hatchet blade onto the shank (and
attaching the hammer head), or whether the metal has simply been
2580) Looks rather decorative. I think that it could serve to grip a
rope for making it easier to pull -- gripped between the knurled
half-circle and the swinging hook. The ball on the other end I
think is purely decorative. (This is two different woods, is it
not?) Otherwise, if metal, it could pivot on that ball.)
Now to post this and then see what others have suggested.
I object to the specific clapboard suggestion, as they are
tapered (always mounted with the thinner edge at the top), and the link
you have there even shows the tool with the proper taper for the lumber
What you have shown might have been used for a similar purpose
with plain planks, but not with clapboards. The one for clapboards does
not even need the additional beveling at the entry, since it is already
tapered, but one for constant thickness planks would need the bevels
shown on your tool for ease of starting onto the plain plank.
Well, there sure isn't any easily found information on the web to explain
the making of a clapboard preacher, though I think most people made their
own from scrap wood.
I totally forgot to mention that I'll be posting on Wednesday this week
instead of the usual Thursday.
If you had an assistant to hold the other end of the clapboard, you
could hold the gauge. That seems more straightforward than expecting
the gauge to grip. If the closed end of the gauge were down, you could
use the gauge to support the clapboard with one hand, and scribe with
the other. In that case, the gauge could not be tapered.
If the scribe were a dull blade with a sharp point, it could slide along
the face of the gauge, and it wouldn't matter if the gauge fit the
clapboard snugly. Using a pencil, the carpenter might have his
assistant rotate the clapboard four degrees or so for a snug fit against
the gauge. The carpenter could also use the gauge to mark the thick
bottom of the clapboard, then lay the board on sawhorses and use a square.
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