that's where the difference is really. otherwise it does not matter. but that's
why I use it as I use lots of oily woods. otherwise I would not use it. though
for what I do it is nice to only have to glue one side.
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
I've been enjoying the increased open time of the III. Makes assemblies
just a bit less harried when joints that fit a few minutes ago no longer
seem to and clamping blocks mysteriously vanish (does that happen to
anyone else??). It dries to a darker color than I or II, for what that's
worth. I don't use enough over the course of a year for the slightly
higher price to make much difference. Can't compare either to the GW202.
TBIII works fine, I use it on darker color woods.
TBII still going strong.
Although, I've been using Gorilla glue more often, longer open time, good
for bent laminations or where waterproofing is required. Sometimes, its
I don't think there is a bad brand of yellow glue.
While people are thinking about the "newest glue" how do you repair a
joint "in a few years"?
I was looking at one of the FW books - and a maker of "fine furniture"
suggested that hide glue was still the best if you wanted to plan ahead
for the "inevitable repairs".
I know that hide glue is still preferred by instrument makers since
repairs are assumed to be necessary and an issue in expensive guitars,
violins etc. Then it is a matter of heating the joint (since hide glue
melts when heated), disassembly, doing the repair and then applying more
hide glue -- since the new hide glue should dissolve the old hide glue
and form a decent bond as they merge.
My understanding is that modern glues may necessitate paring down the
old joint (to get rid of the old glue since it seals the wood) , adding
wood back and then reglueing...
Any thoughts on this issue?
I've seen that too. And I've used the liquid version for some "fine
furniture" I've built. I've got the gluepot and the beads for the hot
version, but I've never needed enough at one time to go through the
Now I'm designing an entertainment center and aquarium stand) for our
living room. Will I use hide glue? I don't know. While I hope to
attain a high level of workmanship, I suspect entertainment centers will
not be a hot item on the future antique circuit. OTOH, who woulda'
thunk that anyone would collect old iceboxes?
ER doc found the Rival Express Hot Pot with variable heat knob worked
as a hot hide glue pot. For $15.00 or so compared to $85.00 or so I
found it works as he said it would.
On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 20:41:47 -0800, Larry Blanchard
Don't have a clue.
Use two (2) different adhesives in the old boat yard.
TiteBond II which is about $13-$14/gallon @ Home Depot for wood projects
and epoxy which considerably more for boat projects.
They both do a fine job.
I use titebond II - just because it was on sale.
I think any type of yellow glue will serve you well
for interior applications. I use poly for outdoors.
Buy a gallon instead of a quart - it lasts quite a long
time. I just emptied my gallon of TB today and it was just
as juicy as when I bought it over a year ago.
Fresh glue, stored well. Old glue is bad glue.
Hot hide glue for veneering
Hot hide glue for big glue-ups on "proper" work and carcase assembly.
Cold hide glue (Titebond) for "quick fixes".
Cheap builder's PVA for plywood, biscuits (diluted) and rough stuff.
Some Titebond garbage with no shelf life that turned into chewing gum
and won't be getting replaced.
Poly when I hate the world and want to build softwood garbage with
Epoxy for almost everything. Great vats of the stuff, and a shelf full
of fillers, pigments and potions for tweaking it.
Rabbit skin glue for when hide glue isn't flexible. Also goes into
gesso, compo, gilding and bookbinding.
Rice paste for Japanese woodworking that needs to be dismantled in the
future (sword scabbards). Take yesterday's leftover rice and mush it
with a bit of water.
Rice starch paste for paper conservation. A pig to brew up carefully.
Wallpaper paste for lots of paper-based stuff.
Five hundred different technical things for sticking glass, brass and
Welding ! 8-)
WEST for water proof applications, laminations.
Cyanoacrylate for small mitres.
Elmers, TB, LePage, any of those quality yellows for anything else wood.
Different job, different glue.
I use a lot of 3-M polygun hotmelt..LOL
This winter I'm using Titebond III mostly because my basement is in
the low 50s. I also use 15 and 5 minute epoxies, Gorilla glue, super
glue, "standard" yellow carpenter's glue, glue sticks, double-face
tape, spray adhesive, and GOOP to name a few.
Depends on what the end result is supposed to be. I made some squirrel
and bird feeders and mailbox covers and use Gorilla glue for them
because it's waterproof.
I used epoxy to fill some sloppy joints I made and when I'm gluing
metals. Also for loose knots. Mixed with some sawdust, it also makes a
strong putty for dings and miscues.
Superglue also comes in handy to lock knots and some wood splits. I
also use to strengthen soft wood and to fix in screws.
Wed, Mar 2, 2005, 8:21pm (EST+5) firstname.lastname@example.org (toller) claims:
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III. Is it worth a
try, or do I stick with 202?
Does this mean you can't make your own decision about what glue to
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold
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