What glue do we like now?

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III. Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

Reply to
toller
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Don't need Type III unless you need the lower temperature chalk point or the water resistance. It's roughly double the price of yellow glue.

Never used the Garrett Wade product so can't compare, but any good-quality yellow aliphatic is plenty strong enough for virtually any woodworking. "Ol' Yeller" from Woodworkers' Supply is somewhat less expensive and every bit as good as the name brands as near as I can tell, but there really isn't much cost differential unless you're into large-scale production.

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

I've been very happy with Lee Valley 2000 GF. I've also used TBIII for outdoor use, but it is more expensive and not any better for indoor work. Ed

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

I think the Lee Valley and the GW are the same glue; the descriptions are almost identical. I will stay true; thanks.

Reply to
toller

Gorilla glue.

Reply to
Never Enough Money

It costs more than I or II.

It works at lower temperatures than I or II.

It doesn't run as much as II or I.

I know nothing about the GW202.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

I've been enjoying the increased open time of the III. Makes assemblies just a bit less harried when joints that fit a few minutes ago no longer seem to and clamping blocks mysteriously vanish (does that happen to anyone else??). It dries to a darker color than I or II, for what that's worth. I don't use enough over the course of a year for the slightly higher price to make much difference. Can't compare either to the GW202.

Roger

Reply to
Roger

TBIII works fine, I use it on darker color woods. TBII still going strong.

Although, I've been using Gorilla glue more often, longer open time, good for bent laminations or where waterproofing is required. Sometimes, its just closer.

I don't think there is a bad brand of yellow glue.

Dave

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Reply to
Teamcasa

While people are thinking about the "newest glue" how do you repair a joint "in a few years"?

I was looking at one of the FW books - and a maker of "fine furniture" suggested that hide glue was still the best if you wanted to plan ahead for the "inevitable repairs".

I know that hide glue is still preferred by instrument makers since repairs are assumed to be necessary and an issue in expensive guitars, violins etc. Then it is a matter of heating the joint (since hide glue melts when heated), disassembly, doing the repair and then applying more hide glue -- since the new hide glue should dissolve the old hide glue and form a decent bond as they merge.

My understanding is that modern glues may necessitate paring down the old joint (to get rid of the old glue since it seals the wood) , adding wood back and then reglueing...

Any thoughts on this issue?

toller wrote:

Reply to
Will

I've used titebond ii, elmers, and ol' yeller. They all do the job I assigned them. No complaints. Hope this helps. Joe

toller wrote:

Reply to
Joe_Stein

Bleech!!!

for ordinary woodworking unless absolutely mandatory for full waterproof would I use a polyurethane. (And, if you must, there are at least a couple other brands of the identical product cheaper than Gorilla...)

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

Why would you "never" use a polyurethane glue?

It's strong. It's fast but not too fast. The squeeze out is easily removed. It's waterproof so if a grandchild spills a drink on it without you noticing, the joints don't fail (the finish may be damaged, though). It ain't that expensive. My gosh, it's peanuts compared to what we spend on other woodworking tools and supplies.

Reply to
Never Enough Money

Don't have a clue.

Use two (2) different adhesives in the old boat yard.

TiteBond II which is about $13-$14/gallon @ Home Depot for wood projects and epoxy which considerably more for boat projects.

They both do a fine job.

HTH

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I use titebond II - just because it was on sale.

I think any type of yellow glue will serve you well for interior applications. I use poly for outdoors.

Buy a gallon instead of a quart - it lasts quite a long time. I just emptied my gallon of TB today and it was just as juicy as when I bought it over a year ago.

Lou

Reply to
loutent

Fresh glue, stored well. Old glue is bad glue.

Hide glue.

Hot hide glue for veneering

Hot hide glue for big glue-ups on "proper" work and carcase assembly.

Cold hide glue (Titebond) for "quick fixes".

Cheap builder's PVA for plywood, biscuits (diluted) and rough stuff.

Some Titebond garbage with no shelf life that turned into chewing gum and won't be getting replaced.

Poly when I hate the world and want to build softwood garbage with huge gaps.

Epoxy for almost everything. Great vats of the stuff, and a shelf full of fillers, pigments and potions for tweaking it.

Rabbit skin glue for when hide glue isn't flexible. Also goes into gesso, compo, gilding and bookbinding.

Rice paste for Japanese woodworking that needs to be dismantled in the future (sword scabbards). Take yesterday's leftover rice and mush it with a bit of water.

Rice starch paste for paper conservation. A pig to brew up carefully.

Wallpaper paste for lots of paper-based stuff.

Five hundred different technical things for sticking glass, brass and unobtainium.

Welding ! 8-)

Reply to
Andy Dingley

WEST for water proof applications, laminations. Cyanoacrylate for small mitres. Elmers, TB, LePage, any of those quality yellows for anything else wood. ('Cept teak..WEST) Different job, different glue. I use a lot of 3-M polygun hotmelt..LOL

Reply to
Robatoy

Wed, Mar 2, 2005, 8:21pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (toller) claims: I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III. Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

Does this mean you can't make your own decision about what glue to buy?

JOAT Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.

- David Fasold

Reply to
J T

Because it is over priced and under peckered.

You will never find that crap on a good boat.

If you need a gap filling adhesive that is also water proof, use epoxy with micro-balloons as a filler.

That won't fail when you really need it.

HTH

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I've seen that too. And I've used the liquid version for some "fine furniture" I've built. I've got the gluepot and the beads for the hot version, but I've never needed enough at one time to go through the hassle.

Now I'm designing an entertainment center and aquarium stand) for our living room. Will I use hide glue? I don't know. While I hope to attain a high level of workmanship, I suspect entertainment centers will not be a hot item on the future antique circuit. OTOH, who woulda' thunk that anyone would collect old iceboxes?

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

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