What does sliding Miter Saw do over a non sliding saw

Steve,

is that a 10" or 12" and thin kerf or standard?

dave

Steve Knight wrote:

Each of us can deal with just one person. I try to ignore insults, and every once in a while it's successful...

-- Mark

When I had my Delta Sawbuck it was pull through the cut. When I went to the SCMS it was push through the cut..I use both methods, depending on the cut I'm making at the time (i.e.- where am I willing to tolerate minor splintering if it should occur in the finished cut). If it's just standard trim or similar sized stock I just do the typical "chop" through.

Never had an accuracy problem with the SCMS, it's properly adjusted and I don't try to horse the thing through the cut.

Scott

Whaaat??! Not on mine, it doesn't, nor on any I've ever seen. I wouldn't buy a miter saw that kicked the dust straight from the kerf into my face... BTW, I have a DW708. What do you have?

Jim

You're standing by a foolish statement, then.

Why? He's not the one having problems. You are! Perhaps you should be trying to figure out why your saw doesn't work as well as his (and mine). You're obviously doing something wrong.

He wasn't talking about "feelings." He was relating his experience. He

You make a lot of mistakes here. Example 1: you use the Bies fence for cross-cutting. Either you don't know what you are doing, or you aren't explaining it properly. If you *are* using a stop block, then the fact that it's on a Bies fence means nothing. If you aren't, then you are inviting problems crosscutting with the fence on a tablesaw. Equal accuracy (and better, for longer stock) can be achieved with a stop block setup on the miter saw. Example 2: A "moving WWII"? In a tablesaw? Or are you talking about the fact that the blade rotates? Like the "80 Dewalt" doesn't? You just don't make sense. Example 3: You now have started comparing the blades, thus changing the topic. Example 4: You complain about not getting straight cuts, and blame it on the type of blade. You have misdiagnosed the problem. Either your blade is bad, or your saw is misaligned. But the problem is not attributable to the blade's thin kerf, nor to the fact that it is being used on a SCMS.

These things seriously jeopardize your credibility.

Jim

The Makita's a good saw, too. I've used both. They are equal tools in my opinion.

Jim

You're right - I'm not sure what I was thinking. I was trying to visualize the difference in my mind, and didn't think it through too well.

I do know that there is a risk of kickback from the SCMS if you pull it through a cut, vs. push it through the cut. This isn't true of the RAS.

you didn't read the follow up posts. that will clear up your idea that I'm using the Bies incorrectly.

a moving blade--of course I mean moving laterally through the wood, as opposed to a CMS that comes straight down. NOT a slider - that is moving, akin to a TS.

so you see, Jimbo, I'm not QUITE as stupid as you surmised. you just didn't do your homework to check the other posts explaining in excruciating detail what I'd hope everyone could understand without me having to explain every last little thing. You assumed too much.

dave

Jim Wils> Bay Area Dave wrote...

I was the original poster........This was/is a remarkable post, I learned a lot, and laughed a lot, but I think all the information taught me to stick with my non-sliding ugly old MiterSaw. Many thanks to you all.......Peter

rollaway

Hisss, Spitt, Groooowwwwlllll .....

Some of these posts .....

...so with all that sniping aside, can we summarize?

SCMS works. Is it fair to say that it requires a little more "tuning" due solely to the fact that it does more (back to my RAS analogy)?

Never having used one and thus have to rely on things I see on TV, does it have the depth stop that will effectively replace the RAS for most things (assuming one has a decent table saw to handle the things one can do on a RAS but probably shouldn't)?

Thanks for the "closure"

Tom Kohlman asks:

More tuning than what? A chop style? Not much, if any.

No. A good RAS will have a crosscut depth of 20+ inches. A good RAS can carry a

Of course, these days a good RAS costs in the neighborhood of $3000.

Charlie Self

"Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of things." Sir Winston Churchill

Bay Area Dave sez in one breath...

and in the next...

To belabor a minor point, what I said was that you either weren't doing it right OR not explaining it properly. So, the latter was the case. Fine.

However, you did manage to miss the gist of my post; perhaps it was only so clear as yours, Davebo?

Jim

...and yet the SCMS takes nearly the same footprint as the RAS.

A good new one. Bargains on good used ones are pretty easy to find. Of course, crappy used ones are even more plentiful, so the buyer must beware. Still, it does seem odd to me that they've fallen so much out of favor.

Jim

I believe I may be infamous for being overly terse. I hate typing. hard to stay on the NG's w/o keyboarding, but I hate it nonetheless.

YOu are correct; I didn't explain sufficiently the first time. I shouldn't expect you to read between the lines. next time I'll try being a bit more forthcoming. (Just don't expect proper capitalization)

dave

Jim Wils> Bay Area Dave sez in one breath...

Steve,

that's been my take on why I get bowed cuts on my 12" Dewalt--it's a skinny blade.

all of the Freud's at HD are thin kerf (all the ones in the store I was in last week). ever see a HD with a std kerf Freud?

dave

Steve Knight wrote: