Very well thought out discourse which I can honestly say impressed me with it's balanced tone and sincerity. I DO agree that delivery is important for the message to be received. Now if the other side will just play nice, we could all go back "on topic" and leave the character assassinating posts to die a well-deserved death.
When I had my Delta Sawbuck it was pull through the cut. When I went to the SCMS it was push through the cut..I use both methods, depending on the cut I'm making at the time (i.e.- where am I willing to tolerate minor splintering if it should occur in the finished cut). If it's just standard trim or similar sized stock I just do the typical "chop" through.
Never had an accuracy problem with the SCMS, it's properly adjusted and I don't try to horse the thing through the cut.
Whaaat??! Not on mine, it doesn't, nor on any I've ever seen. I wouldn't buy a miter saw that kicked the dust straight from the kerf into my face... BTW, I have a DW708. What do you have?
Why? He's not the one having problems. You are! Perhaps you should be trying to figure out why your saw doesn't work as well as his (and mine). You're obviously doing something wrong.
He wasn't talking about "feelings." He was relating his experience. He
*tested* the two saws against each other. His experience is worth a lot more than your opinion, especially given *your* comparison:
You make a lot of mistakes here. Example 1: you use the Bies fence for cross-cutting. Either you don't know what you are doing, or you aren't explaining it properly. If you *are* using a stop block, then the fact that it's on a Bies fence means nothing. If you aren't, then you are inviting problems crosscutting with the fence on a tablesaw. Equal accuracy (and better, for longer stock) can be achieved with a stop block setup on the miter saw. Example 2: A "moving WWII"? In a tablesaw? Or are you talking about the fact that the blade rotates? Like the "80 Dewalt" doesn't? You just don't make sense. Example 3: You now have started comparing the blades, thus changing the topic. Example 4: You complain about not getting straight cuts, and blame it on the type of blade. You have misdiagnosed the problem. Either your blade is bad, or your saw is misaligned. But the problem is not attributable to the blade's thin kerf, nor to the fact that it is being used on a SCMS.
These things seriously jeopardize your credibility.
you didn't read the follow up posts. that will clear up your idea that I'm using the Bies incorrectly.
a moving blade--of course I mean moving laterally through the wood, as opposed to a CMS that comes straight down. NOT a slider - that is moving, akin to a TS.
so you see, Jimbo, I'm not QUITE as stupid as you surmised. you just didn't do your homework to check the other posts explaining in excruciating detail what I'd hope everyone could understand without me having to explain every last little thing. You assumed too much.
I was the original poster........This was/is a remarkable post, I learned a lot, and laughed a lot, but I think all the information taught me to stick with my non-sliding ugly old MiterSaw. Many thanks to you all.......Peter
...so with all that sniping aside, can we summarize?
SCMS works. Is it fair to say that it requires a little more "tuning" due solely to the fact that it does more (back to my RAS analogy)?
Never having used one and thus have to rely on things I see on TV, does it have the depth stop that will effectively replace the RAS for most things (assuming one has a decent table saw to handle the things one can do on a RAS but probably shouldn't)?
More tuning than what? A chop style? Not much, if any.
No. A good RAS will have a crosscut depth of 20+ inches. A good RAS can carry a
10" dado head. A good RAS can carry a molding head. The SCMS can do none of those things.
Of course, these days a good RAS costs in the neighborhood of $3000.
Charlie Self
"Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of things." Sir Winston Churchill
10" and standard kerf. no need for a thin the saw has plenty of power. but it makes a difference in accuracy of cut between my freud 80t and my WW blade.
...and yet the SCMS takes nearly the same footprint as the RAS.
A good new one. Bargains on good used ones are pretty easy to find. Of course, crappy used ones are even more plentiful, so the buyer must beware. Still, it does seem odd to me that they've fallen so much out of favor.
I believe I may be infamous for being overly terse. I hate typing. hard to stay on the NG's w/o keyboarding, but I hate it nonetheless.
YOu are correct; I didn't explain sufficiently the first time. I shouldn't expect you to read between the lines. next time I'll try being a bit more forthcoming. (Just don't expect proper capitalization)
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