What does sliding Miter Saw do over a non sliding saw

I use the fence with a 1" aux fence to set the length. when the board is cut, it is not in contact with either fence. that would be stupid. the aux fence is short and is placed towards the operator's end of the main fence. slide the work piece across the sled, up against the aux fence. move forward and then you clear the aux fence before the blade contacts the workplace. very elegant. quick. super accurate.

what I originally mentioned in this thread (to paraphrase myself) is that a non slider is more accurate than a slider, but not accurate enough for my tastes, except for less demanding work.

dave

dave

RWM wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave
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Mark, you'll find there are a handful of characters here who would argue with me if I said the sky was blue. I give up trying to reason with them after the second go-around, usually. :) They go off topic constantly, yet they complain about the on-topic discussion of accuracy that I brought up. If you ever agree with me you'll will be branded by the low lifes that attempt to control this news group. Mob mentality is alive and well on the Wreck.

Write something, quick, to me telling me what a useless, shiftless, demonic, moronic, nitwit I am. Then you'll be in their good graces.

dave

Mark Jerde wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

I agree with a lot of what you have to say, but I was trying to get BAD to state if he had really investigated the accuracy difference between the types of saws. I find that many times people like to repeat things that they have read to try to present themselves as knowledgeable. I have, and use, both types of saws and one of the first things that I did after purchasing the scms was to test the accuracy. I found zero difference even though that I had read in many articles the throw away line "that scms were less accurate than cms."

There are a lot of "expert" woodworkers who don't cut a lot of wood...

Bob McBreen

Reply to
RWM

Well, right now, outside my window it's black with little white sparkley thingies and occasional fluffy white thingies...

My very first job after college a wise, old, retired Air Force pilot took me under his wing. To boil down everything he taught me, the essence is to write and speak from the other bloke's point of view.

I have read many things you have posted. Considering the whole paragraph, they make sense. But you, as I did before the retired Colonel grabbed my ear and made me understand, tend to write *first* in DISagreement, then agreement. If you develop the habit of simply reversing these, people will take much less offense. Very few people have developed the discipline to read an entire article or paragraph and then pass judgement -- usually each sentence, in turn, provides the cascading emotional impact.

I suggest you learn to do what I was taught to do in the early 1980's. Instead of writing,

"Charlie, that's the single stupidest thing I've ever heard. But in some ways I agree with you. The grommit should always be impaled on the gadget..."

you should *consciously* try to write like this,

"Charlie, I agree completely about impaling the grommit on the gadget. That makes perfect sense, and I do it all the time. But I don't agree with your point about the fridget on the slammer. It seems to me ..."

The second techique focuses on the specifics; the first, unfortunately, tends to focus on the individuals, no matter the merits of the ancillary information.

To choose to use the 2nd technique takes lots of discipline and willingness to read what one has written through they eyes of another. It also requires a concious decision to demote one's own ego. I know this, because I've been married over 20 years and have two teenagers. Almost daily, my decision is between "Do I want to foster growth and understanding" or "Do I need to beat my chest the hardest, showing I'm the biggest ape in the jungle?" It's not easy, but I usually choose to make sure the others feel they are communicating accurately. (Many are the times I've sat in my car afterward, listening to 1970's music, and crying... A 40+ year old dude sitting in a Firebird crying in the rain?: Yup.)

To summarize, I believe if you hone your delivery skills you will be better able to get your content across. The keys are to write from the other person's point of view and to take one's own ego out of the writing as much as possible.

I have a lot more I could write on this, In fact, I paused a very long time after writing "Yup." trying to decide if more was apprpriate. I decided it was better to wait for feedback, if any.

Summarizing: BAD, it seems to me that sometimes you make very good points in such a way that many people take offense. You can learn to no create these needless offenses; I have done so myself.

Thought? Comments?

-- Mark

Reply to
Mark Jerde
O

you have that backwards you start with the head pulled out drop it into the wood and push backwards. the other way is a radial arm saw.

Reply to
Steve Knight

my makita is as accurate as you are going to get with a good blade. I don't find the saw flexing at all. it blew away my delta chopsaws for accuracy and they were not sliders.

Reply to
Steve Knight

well you are using a 12" thin kerf blade what do you expect? try a 1) WW chopsaw blade a world of difference.

Reply to
Steve Knight

I have a Makita LS1013 also, great saw i can't imagine doing alot of projects without it anymore. as far as accuricy goes i am amazed at how well it does with trim work.

Reply to
Thompson Family

Steve Knight responds:

Yeah, well, when I tested a bunch of these a couple years ago, I did find that you could more easily twist the handles on the sliders to force the cut off the proper line.

Given anything like proper technique, I found NO difference in the better quality sliders and non-sliders. The lower quality units weren't all that bad, but needed more care in handling and more frequent tuning (which isn't nearly as bad as tuning an RAS, because the slider mechanisms on the SCMSs are simpler).

I was able to twist every saw off its proper line, so a gentle hand and a straight downward pressure (in the direction of the line of the cut) is a real help with these tools.

Charlie Self

"Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of things." Sir Winston Churchill

Reply to
Charlie Self

Reply to
Michael Baglio

I'll be watching...

Reply to
Michael Baglio

... for those flying pigs. ;>

Reply to
Michael Baglio

Mark,

for safety reasons, I suggest you never make a cut by 'pushing' the slider. The blade can (and will) lift the leading edge of the wood off the saw plate unless it is clamped down, the probable result being a kickback as the blade jams in the wood. It will also give much greater tearout as the blade is egressing into the air instead of down into the table.

By pulling the saw, the blade pushes the wood down into the table and fence at the same time, assisting with a stable, safe, cut.

regards,

Greg

Reply to
Groggy

Mark,

I can see that others in this thread have different opinions to mine. Given that, you should read the manual I guess, as I will tomorrow.

cheers,

Greg

Reply to
Groggy

I've had a 12" Dewalt SCMS (DW 708) for about three or four years. Before that I used an 8-1/2" Hitachi SCMS (C8FB2). Before that I used a 10" Makita Chop Saw. Before that I used a Stanley 5" Human Powered Mitre(sic) Box (358-A).

Properly set up they are all accurate but the SCMS has the edge on capacity. I do a fair amount of tallish baseboards and larger size crown moldings and the extra capacity is a great advantage in these situations. This is particularly true for the largest crown moldings, as they may be cut lying down on the SCMS.

The crosscut capacity of the SCMS is much greater than the CMS. I can rough cut a little over 20" in width on my Dewalt, by lifting the board and the blade (do not try this at home).

It is important to use a quality blade (do not use thin kerf blades) and to allow the blade to come up to full speed before bringing it into contact with the wood. Deciding where to start the cut depends on what you need to accomplish.

On pre-finished, wide flat work, or crown molding, where it must be cut with the good side up, I usually enter the piece slowly, back at the fence and pull towards me. Sometimes I will merely do a light scoring cut this way and then make the full depth cut on the push stroke. When the piece can be cut good side down I cut on the push. On smaller pieces of trim, that could be cut as you would with a chop saw, I push the blade into the cut, except in instances where a pre-finished top edge would make it better to cut as with a chop saw.

On both of the SCMS types that I have used, a good feature is the depth stop. I find this to be very useful in making dentil moldings, scoring the line for some dado and rabbets, and for the relief cuts that must be made to bend curved baseboards and such. To have this work properly you must pack out the fence so that the full diameter of the blade enters the piece all along the cut. (a two inch rip to pack out the fence on the DW708)

To come back to the consideration of accuracy; I've found the SCMS models that I've used to be plenty accurate for most trim work. I also get good square crosscuts when cutting 12" wide stock for bookcases. For very fine work, as in small moldings and small stock sizes, as might be used in jewelry boxes, etc., I use the SCMS to get me close and then finish up with a Lion Miter Trimmer.

A Dewalt DW708 goes for around $600 new and the price you quoted fits in with what I usually expect to get for used equipment in good condition (60% of current best price). This doesn't take into consideration the stand, or any other accessories, blades, etc. that may come with it.

If the saw is in good shape, you should wind up with an accurate, high-capacity tool for a fair price.

Regards, Tom Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania

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Reply to
Tom Watson

What was the question????

As far as the saw cutting wavy ?

News flash: Any saw will cut poorly if you don't run it at it's 'natural rhythm'.

Everything has a speed which it wants to happen. Everything. Exceed this speed and it's going to screw up.

Reply to
Mark

My concern was not with the style of delivery, but rather if the information that BAD posted was based in fact. I tend to get along with most people and have learned that over time I really enjoy spending time with people who at first I didn't understand.

It doesn't seem like the information that BAD posted was based in fact, and posting information that you have no real knowledge of is a huge disservice to the newsgroup

Bob McBreen

Reply to
RWM

OK, I understand now. At first I thought that you were using a crosscut sled with a stop block and didn't understand where the fence came in.

Bob McBreen

Reply to
RWM

So all the reviewers are wrong? And we are to believe your anecdodal "evidence"? Do you see how easily the tables can be turned? You castigate me as "presenting" myself as knowledgeable. There is nothing disingenuous with providing information gleaned from reading, especially from various reputable sources, for the consumption of others. If you feel your slider is accurate, fine; I'm not so inclined. I've looked at more than several of them and every time I grabbed their movable saw, I could elicit a noticeable amount of side play; no matter the brand. I've concluded from repeated observation AND reading that they won't suit my purposes. Am I wrong? could be? Am I evil or stupid for stating my opinion? Apparently in YOUR myopic eyes. Do I care? NO!!!!

dave

RWM wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

"Am I evil or stupid for stating my opinion?"

Reply to
RWM

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