Those marks you got are from moving the sander too fast over the surface. Slow down, and don't put apply hardly any downward pressure; you don't want to bog (slow) down the sander.
David
Gary Fritz wrote:
Gary Fritz wrote in news:Xns95949D594F6D8fritzfriicom@216.17.128.40:
Well, after the ROS, at each grit, the procedure is to clean the surface. Air, a soft bench brush, a shop vac, something. Then a quick wipe with a rag, dampened with mineral spirits. That will show you what there is to pay attention to.
With the ROS, I stop at 120 or 150. Everything thereafter is hand sanded, with a block, to whatever the final grit is going to be. If oak, it's often only 180, sometimes less, depending on what I'm going to do with it.
Someone said, probably more than one someone, that each grit is only to take out the scratches from the previous grit. If you leave something nasty from 60/80, then trying to take it out with 220 is a study in frustration, and a waste of time.
If it were me, and it's not, I'd take a sharp card scraper, and go after the spots with the swirls, then touch up the surface with the last grit you used, only by hand, and with the grain, then clean and dampen the surface one more time with the mineral spirits. That will give you the best estimate of what the finish will look like, before you open another can of poly.
Remember the patience part. Thanksgiving is still weeks away.
Patriarch
:-) But I'm sick of using the folding table!!
Well, I took it down to the wood, stained it, and as I said the stain showed up a few corkscrews. But I said screw it, I am sick of spending up-close & personal quality time with this table. I went ahead and put on 4 coats of the Varathane DWF, hand-sanding lightly after the 1st and
3rd coats with 320.The Varathane didn't make the grain pop NEARLY as much as the Polycrylic. The wood was satiny-smooth after I stained it, and the first coat came out fairly smooth.
The corkscrews are barely visible. I have to look hard to find them. I doubt anybody else will ever see them.
18 hrs after the last coat, I can still dent it with my fingernail, but it's already WAY harder than the Polycrylic. I'll let it cure for a couple of days and hope it's hard enough for kid use by then.Thanks for all the tips, everyone! Gary
Gary Fritz wrote in news:Xns959881922C104fritzfriicom@216.17.128.40:
It should cure a bit faster in the warm house, anyway.
I have a table that sits in our dining area, that my parents bought when they bought a new home in 1955. The top has needed refinishing since about
1960. We keep a table cloth on it, and enjoy the best family dinners around that table. I don't really know when I'll get around to building a 'fancy' one. Grandkids are too much fun.Although I DID have a brief conversation with my daughter-in-law over the wisdom of someone buying the kid a maple mallet and tool bench, and then bringing same to my house. It left.
Collect memories.
Patriarch
I let it cure for 3 days, then put it into service. We're using placemats for now to reduce wear & tear until it can cure for a few weeks. It's already pretty hard. The surface is much smoother and easier to clean than the old flaking-off poly, and it looks beautiful.
This table is too pretty to cover up. Big family dinners are a rarity, unfortunately, since both sides of our family live 800-900 mi away. But we've had as many as 15 friends around the table for holiday feasts. Now it's in good shape to do that again. Unfortunately everybody already had out-of-town plans for Thanksgiving, ohwell...
Gary
Gary Fritz wrote in news:Xns959D6A361CDC5fritzfriicom@216.17.128.40:
So make your own holiday! A quiet feast in mid to late January is often welcome.
Glad you were successful in your refinishing quest.
Patriarch
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