Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?
This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.
My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.
I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Honestly I do not trust Norton at all, had it seemed to miss virus'
and identify harmless java scripts for an email address as a problem.
Symantec is run by bankers that adds to distrust and dislike of the
But that said the NPE program from Norton has fix two really bad
problems I had in the past.
Hopefully if Saw Center has a problem the ESET people will let them
I trusted Norton but got tired of it taking control and eating up
resources and then uninstalling some versions was a nightmare. I had a
neighbor that is in the business build my current computer and he puts
ESET on all of them. I will say that talking to them, ESET was an easy
task totally unlike Norton.
I have noticed over the years that most repairs of this sort are more
easily accomplished as a bench top job rather than trying to get at
nuts, washers, springs, clips, etc. inside the casing. Or maybe I just
don't have enough joints in my fingers.
I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.
I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.
My anitivirus (Symantec Endpoint) did the same thing - which is why I didn't
post the the complete link.
I don't know if the site has recently been hijacked or if it's just a
false-alarm but I've been to it many times in the past few years without any
Also, while Googling "unisaw bearings" the woodworker forums (lumberjocks,
sawmillcreek, etc) recommended that same link numerous times.
The link below IS safe. It's an archive of the original sawcenter instructional:
It will be heavy, but that is relative. I would imagine in the 100lbs
But if you do pull that top off there will probably be shims at each or
some of the corners between the top and the cabinet. You will want to
make sure that they go back in the right place.
With a bright flashlight and reading glasses I found 3 of the 4 large cap screws
do indeed have shims, a couple have multiple shims. I was expecting thin metal
shims but they appear to be some sort of amber phenolic material varying in
About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.
B) Is solid, but webbed.
OP can guesstimate as wishes from starting point if wants to get better
estimate by estimating webbing fraction. Starting w/ a 1" thickness
makes the ratioing easier.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.