TS Miter Gauge Question

[Dr. Deb]

auge has a keeper on the end so you can?t seat the gauge in the slo t unless that end of the gauge bar is off the table.

closer to the front of the table and the miter gauge has to be pulled way back for cross cutting wide stock. In this case, the keeper keeps the far end of the gauge from rotating up as you start the cut.

off the table end to lift it off or set it in the groove. Different than how I?ve done business for a very long time.

er gauges. Please let me know more of the pros and cons.

I removed mine, but not because I did not like it. In fact it comes in rea ly handy when using a tenoning jig. But my outfeed table track does not ha ve the T slot and when it came to a choice between the slot or the outfeed table, the table won hands down. That table has saved me too many times.

[Brewster]

I insulated the ceiling of my garage and put up new drywall (no attic access). I found a framing square and fairly nice (not rusty and still sharp) crosscut saw.

Helps to even out the tool-sacrifice-to-the-Gods karma

-BR

[Leon]

Widen your out feed track slot if you can, there is no need for that slot to be an exact fit.

[dpb]

I "found" a framing square when finishing up the downstairs in order to sell the house in VA prior to the move to TN. It was in the framing over the shop door at bottom of stairs where it had been for probably at least six years after closed off the shop area for dust control and then the basement remodel project got put aside...

[dpb]

...

Just cut the tee there, too, presuming it's a wood top, or buy one of the insert t-tracks if don't want the slotting cutter--all that takes is widening the groove...

[Mike Marlow]

Not really. The out feed does not need to be an exact fit - just a place for the miter to run into. It can be 2" wider than your table saw slot and it will work just fine.

[Jack]

When I remodeled the bathroom in my old house, I ripped out the false ceiling and lying on the ceiling, was beautiful pair of lineman's pliers. The house was around 50 years old then, and I still have them. I guess they are around 90 years old now.

Super quality and I bet the guy wondered where they went till the day he died. Although I have no clue who he was, I think of him, and thank him, every time I use them, which is quite often.

[Leon]

Correct! The TS table top does not have an extended miter slot to begin with, adding an out feed does not require there to be one added other from the fact that the bar needs room. So give it plenty of room.

[dpb]

Ah, come on, guys...I didn't say it _HAS_ to, just offered an alternative. Give it a break.

[Leon]

Not arguing, just trying to make it simpler. ;~)

[Bill Leonhardt]

I once left a hammer in a wall I later sheetrocked. When I realized it, I opened the wall since it was one of my favorite hammers.

The contractor's assistant who framed and finished my kitchen left a hammer in the soffit over the cabinets. When he realized that, they decided to leave it.

To me, hammers that feel right are sacred. It would take more that a little sheetrock and extra spackle to leave one behind.

Bill

[dpb]

On 06/04/2016 6:38 PM, Leon wrote: ...

Hadn't the alternate option already been given?

[Leon]

Yes! And I read your response to my mentioning to simply make the slot wider as a possible necessary step to keep the miter gauge going straight after the cut had been made.

Several years ago there was a long and drawn out discussion about an out feed table having accurate miter slots to further guide the gauge after the cut. I was just reiterating that the grove simply needs to provide a path and not be a guide.

Anyway.... ;~)

[Mike Marlow]

Roger that. If the slot had to be sized to the miter then how would table saws that do not have an outfeed work? They've got a really really wide slot beyond the table...

[dpb]

On 06/05/2016 10:12 AM, Leon wrote: ...

Well, the head of the factory miter gauge has some several inches overhang before it clears the blade entirely, so a further guide wouldn't have _zero_ effect...

But the following was implicit in the previous post:

DISCLAIMER:

The following is for the benefit (if any were to be perceived) of the OP under the caveat it is an express alternate technique admittedly requiring further effort than the absolute minimum required for simple functionality. Any who might be offended or feel the need to pontificate further need progress no further.

_IF_ (the proverbial "big if") you're one of those that the appearance of things is as of much (or maybe even more) importance than simply functionality, one may find router bits with which one may create the matchint t-slot, or one could use a commercial t-slot fitting.

Whether this is of sufficient importance to you is left entirely to your discretion; it is provided simply to remind that there are relatively simple (albeit somewhat more involved than "the bare minimum") techniques which will allow for accomodation of the factory miter gauge.

[krw]

I would argue that it's not just wasted effort but getting the slots aligned perfectly would seem to be pretty difficult, with zero gain (as has been repeatedly pointed out here).

I'm glad you added the above disclaimer. ;-)

[Mike Marlow]

Before you continue on with this, think about the standard saw with no outfeed table. There is no miter slot guide beyond that of the saw itself. Now - how is an outfeed slot going to provide any benefit at all? It has zero effect.

Just what in the hell are you trying to say here? Besides trying to sound like a lawyer, the above makes absolutely no sense at at..

You need to stop writing - this is of little more sense than your previous paragraph.

You really need to stop trying to sound like some academic idiot. Just about everything you have said in this post makes no sense at all.

[John McCoy]

dpb wrote in news:nj2dv6$hns$ [e-mail]:

Once the head of the miter gauge reaches the front of the blade, the cut is complete. So I'm not seeing why anyone would care about clearing the blade completely.

I suspose if you're cutting dados or something like that you care until the gauge reaches the center of the blade, but even then most of the bar is in the table slot.

John

[DerbyDad03]

When my boys were very young, I removed a knee-wall in their bedroom to create storage shelves with sliding doors. Creating the flat portion for the upper track resulted in small triangular "cubbies" because of the slanted ceiling.

I had each of my 4 kids and SWMBO create a drawing and write a few words. I wrote a little about the project, the house and my family. We dated each sheet, rolled them up and put them in the cubbies before dry walling over them.

They'll either be there until the house comes down or a subsequent owner decides to raise that roof or otherwise remodel that room.

[woodchucker]

Actually it could be the summit of the blade. Since you could be cutting a 3" piece of stock, and the front would not complete the cut.