TS balse question

[Dave]

I have an Oldham Signature combination blade on my TS. It cuts crosscuts just fine. The problem I am concerned with is that when I rip an Oak board I get a pitch type buildup on the right side of the blade only. I usually take the blade off and clean it with EasyOff oven cleaner and it does a good job of cleaning it. I then reinstall the blade and rip again and when I do I get an immediate buildup on the right side of the blade again. My Oak has been dried for 3 or more years and is not newly cut or damp. The question I have is do any of you know of a combination blade that has a coating on it (Teflon or something else) than prevents buildup from occurring that I can purchase? Thanks for your help.

[Doug Miller]

You got a lot of answers the first time you posted this. Didn't you like any of them? :-)

[Toller]

What the hell kinda oak are you cutting? I have never had anything like you describe. I think you must be an idiot.

[Dave]

Doug, The reason I reposted is that my post did not show up when I accessed this NG. Neither did any of the replies to the post show up. I don't know what caused it so I reposted again and then it finally showed up. Maybe my ISP is at fault. As to my problem maybe it wasn't a pitch build up, but a build up from burning when I fed the stock through. I tried feeding at different speeds, but it still happens. I don't think it is caused by a dull blade. Thank you to all for your replies that I never got to see. Toller it takes one to know one!

[Me]

Dave try a freud blade they have a coating on them .F

[Doug Miller]

Well, if the stock is burning, you have a problem somewhere...

They should be available in Google. If not, email me -- they're still available on the newsserver I use, and I can download them and email them to you. (My real email address is in the sig line of this post.)

[Mike O.]

If you are happy with how that blade makes crosscuts, you might consider another blade that is better suited for ripping. I've used combination blades too but have yet to find one that will perform both operations as well as a blade designed for the specific type of cut.

Mike O.

[Len]

crosscuts

an Oak board I

usually take

does a good job

when I do I

My Oak has

blade that has a

from

If the fence is on the right side of the blade it sounds more like a rip fence alignment problem than a problem with the blade. Double check to make sure the end of the fence isn't closer to the blade than the front.

Len

[Dave]

Thanks Len. That makes sense. Awhile back I had trouble with stock binding. I will check it out and see if it is. I have a Grizzly G0444Z with a ShopFox fence that is a Beis clone.

[Dave]

Thanks Mike

[Prometheus]

Hey Dave,

How many teeth does that Oldham have?

I ask because when I was starting out, I got it into my head somehow that more teeth = better cut. So most of my blades were 80 tooth monsters that crosscut like champs, and did a very nice job on plywood. But they burned the wood when ripping certain stock. Took a lot of fiddling around double-checking the alignment of the saw before I finally got it through my head that a good 32 or 40-tooth blade would do a better and faster job on the rip cuts. I'm sure I've got another eye-opener coming some time in the future, when I finally get the money and inclination to purchase some dedicated rip and crosscut blades.

Went through the same process with the bandsaw when I got one for wood instead of metal. If you haven't tried resawing maple with a underpowered bandsaw sporting a 14tpi blade- don't! Sometimes I'm just too damn thick-headed for my own good.

Just a thought, in case the other suggestions don't solve the problem.