I have an Oldham Signature combination blade on my TS. It cuts crosscuts
just fine. The problem I am concerned with is that when I rip an Oak board I
get a pitch type buildup on the right side of the blade only. I usually take
the blade off and clean it with EasyOff oven cleaner and it does a good job
of cleaning it. I then reinstall the blade and rip again and when I do I
get an immediate buildup on the right side of the blade again. My Oak has
been dried for 2 or 3 years and is not newly cut or damp.
The question I have is do any of you know of a combination blade that has a
coating on it (Teflon or something else) than prevents buildup from
occurring that I can purchase? Thanks for your help.
I've used freud and forrest blades without any kind of buildup like
what you're describing. I have to wonder if what you're experiencing
is a blade problem, a tablesaw setup problem, or a problem with the
I bought the same blade at HD and loved it and the price. While it was
getting sharpened I bought a second one as a backup. It did the same thing
you are talking about. Return it and try another one, that's what I did and
the next one was fine.
It is remotely possible that the blade itself is at fault. If it was
improperly sharpened so that there is less tooth/body clearance on one
side then that side would be more sensitive to alignment error. It
could also be sharpened so that there is zero or negative clearance, in
which case you will have a problem no matter what the alignment. You
might be able to see it with the naked eye (marks from the sharpening
wheel on the blade body) but it's more likely you would need a dial
indicator to check it.
Personally, I am inclined to agree with Jack's assessment (below). It
might not happen on all blades because they might have more tooth/body
clearance and be less sensitive to misalignment. Did you check the
alignment with a dial indicator? Did you use the "mark a spot and
rotate the blade" method? If you don't do this, or if you use a blade
replacement plate, your alignment might be adversely affected by warp
or arbor/flange runout.
The following page has a section called "Use of a blade replacement
plate" which contains description and a video demonstrating the best
Hope it helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
2006 year end special: http://www.ts-aligner.com/recwworderform.htm
I am guessing that you either have a blade with the teeth on the right
side not properly set or the feed is a little crooked compared to the
blade. Measure carefully from the fence to the front and back of the
blade to be sure it isn't cocked. Somebody here posted a link to
setting up a table saw a while ago and when I did that to my junky old
Craftsman ("good" grade) saw lot of these nagging little problems
Probably your rip fence is not quite parallel to the blade -- the clearance is
a little bit less at the back of the blade than at the front -- and the wood
is being forced against the blade.
It's also possible that your splitter is very slightly misaligned. That can
also pull the wood one direction or the other. But I think I'd be looking at
the fence alignment first.
Arm & Hammer washing soda works even better. It's cheaper, better for the
environment, less messy, and has no noxious fumes. Dissolve 1/4 cup in a quart
of warm water in a plastic dishpan, and lay the saw blade in it. Most of the
crud will lift off the blade almost immediately; any that remains after five
minutes can be easily scrubbed off with an old toothbrush. You can find
washing soda in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores.
Yep, sounds like an alignment problem.
Don't treat the symptom -- find and fix the cause. Check the alignment of your
saw first: verify that the blade, the miter slots, and the rip fence are all
parallel. Slight toe-OUT of the rip fence (farther away from the blade at the
back than at the front) is not a problem. The precise definition of "slight"
is a matter of opinion -- some posters on this ng have indicated that they set
their fences to toe out by 1/64", and others say just a few thousandths -- but
the important thing is that it does not toe IN. It appears that yours *does*,
and that's a potential safety hazard, because it can cause kickback.
A Google Groups search on this ng for table saw alignment will tell you more
than you ever wanted to know.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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