I kept on getting burn marks on my Delta Unisaw when cutting Maple. I have a
tune-up, align the blade and table slot to less than 0.002". (more like 0.001"
with a dial gauge). I also replaced the left side of the board on the Biesemeyer
fence and aligned to the blade. I tested it using Delta's saw blade and Forrest
WWll (thin Kerf) blade. I am still getting burn marks (less on the WWll blade)
after the tune-up. Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
and the blade by as much as 0.030" on the out feed side of the blade as suggest
by a woodworking magazine? What other advice do you have?
I would suggest using a full kerf blade, thin kerf blades can and do flex
ahd could be rubbing the wood.
Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence
If every thing is correctly set up NO moving the fence out at the back only
creates problems some where else. You want your fence to be dead parallel
to the blade. Moving the fence out only hides problems and leaves the waste
side of the cut with a rough edge which is not a good thin if you plan on
using the waste side.
Never thought about it before, but it makes me wonder if there's anything
similar to TopCote except it's sprayed on the blade to permit easier cutting
resulting in a faster feed rate? Akin to soaping the blade so to speak.
First let me thank everyone who replied. I can see It not only my problems.
Previously, I use Oldham Signature Series combination saw blades. I encounter
little or no burn. My past experienced cleaning the saw blades with a pink gum
cleaning solution (sold by Woodcraft) will also remove the Teflon coating. I
have since sold my old Crapmans table saw and with it, I generously gave all my
Oldham blades. Today I cannot find Oldham Signature Series combination saw
blades. Few weeks ago I did not buy one that was available in Ebay. It was a
used and without the stabilizer. Anyone where I can buy an Oldham Signature
Series saw blades? Thanks again.
It's not just the average feed rate, but make sure you keep the board
moving. When feeding a long board, I think the slow downs when
changing hands creates burns. Try to get a hand over hand motion to
keep the board always moving. I think feather boards help too because
the keep the board from moving as you change hands, and thus slightly
change the point on the board where you are applying force.
I also second the call for a 24T rip blade. I have a thin kerf Freud
rip blade and it is 100x better than my WWII when ripping. The perfect
combo blade is still a myth.
Keep the blade free of pitch and gum. I also agree with a slight extra
angle on the outfeed side of the fence (probably less than the .030"
suggested, it's actually just some amount you can visually detect: Heck,
the Biesemeyer fences are not even that consistently accurate for
high-volume use [insert argument here]), but it will also depend on
which side of the board is going to warp toward the blade when cut and
the grain releases. Kind of a crapshoot. We use a lot of maple in our
shop and have to deal with this. No complete answer.
LOL ... even David J Marks has his share of burn with maple. With maple,
it's the 5 lb gorilla in the room nobody mentions. :)
Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!
I flew from Hartford to Harrisburg, PA and back in a small, twin-engined
aircraft Friday. Even with the gasoline powered Janitrol heater
cranked, flannel lined jeans, and three shirts, I froze @ only 5000 feet.
Normally, we can do burgers on the heater grate!
I was once in a mode where I was creating lots of buthcer block tops.
This meant ripping hundreds of bf of 4/4 5/4/ and 6/4 hard maple into
l 1/2 to 2 1/2" strips. When the shop upgraded the burned out 3hp in
the unisaw to a 5hp I rarely saw burn after that unless I had stressed
wood that was pinching the blade (no splitter).
...long ago when carbide was a potential, we used WD40 to lube blades
when doing alot of Skilsaw ripping. That technique stuck with me and
I use the stuff to this day when called for...like when ripping maple
or any super dense wood. While the substance may help (and it does)
there is no substitute for a *steady* and consistent feed. When
preparing to rip longer material, I always review my footwork and hand
positioning...burns still occur on occasion, though, so leaving a
little extra to re-rip or joint is good CYA. ;0-)
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