How to get burn-free cuts?

Maple, being high in sugar content, has a tendency to burn easily. Increasing the toe out most likely cause the burn to be on the waste side (the side opposite the fence) of the cut.

I saw Norm cut maple and get a burn mark so don't feel so bad. I know I felt better. Phil Brown

I hear you. I struggle with the same problem.

Keep you feed rate up... that wil help alot.

-Steve

I would suggest using a full kerf blade, thin kerf blades can and do flex ahd could be rubbing the wood.

Will it help if I increase the clearance between the fence

If every thing is correctly set up NO moving the fence out at the back only creates problems some where else. You want your fence to be dead parallel to the blade. Moving the fence out only hides problems and leaves the waste side of the cut with a rough edge which is not a good thin if you plan on using the waste side.

"Regardless of the saw and blade it is difficult to not burn Maple, A fast feed rate helps.

Many intervening factors.

Sharp blade Proper blade ripping blade with fewer teet and big gullets for clearing stock Fast feed rate Enough HP to support the required feed rate This kerf helps with the HP issue Freud or CMT coated blades help with the HP issue

You should be able to get no burn if you can feed fast enough.

Never thought about it before, but it makes me wonder if there's anything similar to TopCote except it's sprayed on the blade to permit easier cutting resulting in a faster feed rate? Akin to soaping the blade so to speak.

When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then either cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.

A good 20T rip blade can also help.

I love my WWII's, but sometimes, the tooth count is simply not right for a specific job.

Actually there is a coating for bits and blades. Empire makes it.

First let me thank everyone who replied. I can see It not only my problems. Previously, I use Oldham Signature Series combination saw blades. I encounter little or no burn. My past experienced cleaning the saw blades with a pink gum cleaning solution (sold by Woodcraft) will also remove the Teflon coating. I have since sold my old Crapmans table saw and with it, I generously gave all my Oldham blades. Today I cannot find Oldham Signature Series combination saw blades. Few weeks ago I did not buy one that was available in Ebay. It was a used and without the stabilizer. Anyone where I can buy an Oldham Signature Series saw blades? Thanks again.

See:

It's not just the average feed rate, but make sure you keep the board moving. When feeding a long board, I think the slow downs when changing hands creates burns. Try to get a hand over hand motion to keep the board always moving. I think feather boards help too because the keep the board from moving as you change hands, and thus slightly change the point on the board where you are applying force.

I also second the call for a 24T rip blade. I have a thin kerf Freud rip blade and it is 100x better than my WWII when ripping. The perfect combo blade is still a myth.

Mitch

And clean the pitch off the blade.

Bingo!

LOL ... even David J Marks has his share of burn with maple. With maple, it's the 5 lb gorilla in the room nobody mentions. :)

Damn it's cold up here in Austin ... way too far North for this coonass!

Well, right now it's -15C with a wind chill of -24C in Toronto.

That's -5F and minus 11F with the wind chill for you other people. It's supposed to be worse tomorrow.

It is supposed to be 82 degrees F (23 C) here is So Cal tomorrow. It was

Dan

That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.