Rank newbie, again. ;)
I need to replace the stringers in a 3 step (not including top deck step).
This is mainly due to the fact they are rotting and falling apart. I've
talked to one of my lumber suppliers (no box stores like Home Depot or
Lowe's) and they recommended "treated" wood. Didn't sound too expensive,
$10 vs $14 for 2x10 (I need a 2x12). Anyway, is this a valid expense or
should I jes get reg wood (pine) and use a sealer (which I'm also woefully
ignorant of). I'm reading DIY sites as fast as I can. Again, not
completely retarded. I got a Skil mag 77 and know how to hurt myself! ;)
Yes. PT is the way to go and probably the lowest cost, the drier the
better. Use deck screws. You might want to find out why the old
stringers are rotting and maybe fix that too. Mine are 20 years old,
going strong, but they were protected with decking stain.
Heh... mine are 19 yrs. old and I've always *meant* to re-treat them. I've
never gotten to it. They show no signs of decay. A few screws (hot dipped
galvanized) have rusted away and I've had to put new screws in but the wood
is as solid as the day they went down.
Pressure treatment puts the protection deep into the wood... much deeper
than painted on stain will ever get.
Course I did.
You said you talked to one of your lumber suppliers, which wasn't a box
store. If you meant to say you weren't willing to talk to a box store or
didn't have a box store to talk to, that wasn't clear from your post.
Not much point in talking to a box store that's 95 miles away when it's not
practical to shop there. It's a bit of a shock to go to our biggest lumber
supplier and discover they're closed on Sunday, as are the other two yards.
Coming from CA and the "hundred yard blvd", rural CO is a real eye-opener.
They only have 3 and I need six. Besides, that completely negates cutting
the wood with all these cool new tools. ;)
I'd suggest using 5/4 decking for the treads instead of the suggested
tubasix though. It looks less "klunky". If choose 2X anyway, then use
a minimum 1/2"R roundover bit to round the outer step edges instead of
leaving them square.
Don't forget the overhang when laying out the initial stringer -- didn't
look carefully but didn't see it mentioned; may have missed it.
Just off the top of my head.
1. The animated illustration shows dimension lines for the vertical
rise, which go between the TOP of one tread to the BOTTOM of the tread
above it, instead of top to top.
2. It shows dimension lines for the vertical drop going from the ground
to the BOTTOM of the top tread, instead of the top (again).
3. The first step (from ground to tread) has a rise almost twice as high
as the rest. (I would guess, at least 10:6)
If there are so blatant of errors in such critical and elementary
aspects of stair construction on the very first frame of an expert
tutorial, how could one trust (or recommend) anything else on the site?
Was that helpful? :-)
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Yes, it was and I thank you for taking the time to point out these errors.
Actually, I should have spotted this myself, especially when one reads the
text and realizes the explanation doesn't match the dimensioning as drawn.
The higher rise on the first step is a puzzlement. Perhap there are going
to be patio stones at base of stairs. (shrug)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.