I have the older Rikon 18" and had the same problem with a 1" blade. The blade
was longer then all the blades I have also. The clicking sound was there also. I
tried to file the weld joint to see if that helped and it didn't. No more
timber wolf blades for me either. All the other blades I have work great.
I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw
(although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase
[November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one
I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking
But I will fire it up again tonight without the dust collector on to
make sure. I have certainly never noticed a clicking, bad tracking or
any other defect.
And, the tension I put on it is very low.. definitely below the 1/2"
mark on the tensioning gauge. I want so say that it's tensioned around
the 1/4 mark, but I'm not sure.
=============After using my "little" Sears `12 in bandsaw for almost 40 years (with
Timberwolf blades exclusively for at least the last 20 years ..) I
finally though it was about timne to get a "little" better Bandsaw...
I do very little resawing (naturally I don't ..who does with a 12 in
craftsman) and really do not wish to buy a 14 inched and add a
riser...So I was thinking about The Jets and the Rikons... NOW you
guys tell me I will also have (or maybe have ) problems with the brand
of Blades I have been using for a long long time...
DUH... back to the drawing boards I guess...
LOL. Well my Craftsman 12" BS was only 23 years old. I did in deed do some
slow resawing with it, 5" Maple. Did I say slow?
That was my idealogy. I refuse to believe that the Timberwolf blades are
bad. Have you ever opened up a bag of peanuts and a few in the bag are just
rottin? I am thinking a bad batch of which I got 4.
Anyway I had a new blade made up today locally and I picked it up today. No
wobble. So in this case my problem with blade wobble seems to point towards
these 4 Timberwold blades. Timberwolf is sending me a new 1" blade and I am
betting it will be just fine.
I think it is an unfortunate fluke.
Let me tell you that I nave been dealing with Rikon and Timberwolf and both
parties are genuinely interested in solving the problem. The fact that
another, 3rd brand blade tracks well on the Rikon BS is a relief to me.
That said Rod with Rikon seems eager to help with saw adjustments if they
are needed. I did not want to do any adjustments until I tried the 3rd
I have been using the Lennox baldes also, and have been very happy with
them. There is a guy here who welds them up for small guys like me, and
for the lumber mills. There was another post here recently about the
Timberwolf blades breaking. I asked him about them. He said that they
are more popular back east (I am in Oregon), and that they did have a
bit of a reputation for quality control problems. I have never used
one, and don't plan to.
I get my Timberwolf blades thru a local company that buys bulk blade stock
from them and welds them up to any size. Love the blades altho I have had
one problem with a blade breaking which had nothing to do with Timberwolf
but the company I bought it from. Of course they replaced it but not the
kind of sound I enjoy coming out of my saw unexpectedly. For a second I
thought one of my ex-wives had finally taken a shot at me. BTW, Timberwolf
does provide special tensioning instructions as they do run under less
tension than a normal blade.
I've got the same flutter problem with my 1" TW blade on my Rikon though it
doesn't click. It does cut quite well. The original blade had a kink in it
that I was unable to get out....my fault in transporting the saw.
How far forward can you adjust the side thrust bearings on the new model? I
can only get about 9/16" coverage before the bearing block hits the guard.
This leaves nearly 1/4" of blade behind the gullet not supported by the
Which model mobile base did you get and from who(m)?
On a 1" blade I can move the side bearings up past the bottom of the gullet.
Too far actually, so the forward travel is plenty. The bearings are lower
than the front bottom of the guard. The guard is cut higher at the back. I
would gladly supply you with a picture if you like.
I bought the Rockler universal base that you supply the wood to complete. I
think it is on sale right now for about $37.
Thanks Leon. I've got a Rockler base on another tool and don't care for it
much. The wheel surfaces are too hard and slide on my epoxied floor too
If you could send me a photo of the bearing/guide set up I'd appreciate it.
I'd ask you to post it on ABPW but Qwest drops them quickly or doesn't post
them at all most of the time. (Usenet Replayer is my friend!)
Gary (grwilliams at qwest dot net)
ok.. I'm just trying to help here.. I did fire mine up again, and there
was no clicking.
I don't mean to state the obvious.. but can you back off on the thrust
I also didn't mean to say that I didn't believe you were having a
problem.. I was just trying to share my experience. Let us know how it
Yes I can back off on the thrust bearing however the bearing becomes
ineffective then. Basically the blade simply flexes and does not touch the
bearing. The clicking is coming from the blade back not being flat. It
clicks as it hits the bearing with each revolution. 2 other "Cheap" brand
blades do not have this problem.
I had the same problem about 8 or 9 years ago. I bought a couple of the 3/4
resaw blades and they had bad welds then, they sent replacements and they
were the same. The blades cut fast, but the surface is not nearly as good
as "The Woodslicer" from Highland Hardware - about $30 each. Anytime I have
serious work and need the best finish, I use a woodslicer, Currently my
last Timberwolf is on the saw for cutting firewood to length for my
woodstove, and is great for getting turning stock ready for the lathe.
Should have looked on the next page....
I wrote bandsaw blade 'thesis' on Jan 8, 1999 and it addresses the
problems with the Suffolk blades.
not sure if this link will work.. but here it is anyhow.
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