"Mark Howell" wrote in news:qPeRd.23925$ya6.20456@trndny01:
I think it's a lot less than the likelihood that snipe can be avoided again.
Scraping and/or sanding is not that big a deal. And there are always grain reversals to which one must attend.
Production speeds? Drum and/or wide belt sander for the final passes.
Patriarch
I'm normally a big fan of refurbs, if the incentive is there, but check this out:
We have a DeWalt "outlet store" in Wethersfield, CT. Coastal Tool is
10-15 minutes away. Coastal sells "perfect" DeWalt tools for less than the outlet sells refurbs.The only thing I've ever actually purchased at the outlet was a $7 metal chip chute for my DW733 planer. I've been shoved away from a "deal" at the outlet store by a moron who doesn't know where Coastal is.
Barry
IMHO you haven't used a DW735. I've had mine for about 15 months now, and there is a *definite* difference in surface quality between the high and low speeds.
Now I'm *sure* you don't have a DW735. I found this to be a big problem with the DeWalt's predecessor in my shop (Delta 22-560), where even *honing* those skinny little blades made them too narrow to be usable. But that just isn't an issue with the DW735.
Although the blades are supposed to be disposable, there's enough metal there to allow for a few resharpenings, as long as you don't too heavy-handed with it. I use a Tormek grinder, followed by lapping the back sides of the knives on #400 wet-or-dry paper laid on a glass plate, so I'm removing only a few thousandths each time. And I'm still on the original set of knives.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
I dunno who's saying that the two speeds are of little benefit, but I'd guess it's mostly people who don't own DW735s. I've had one for over a year, and I see a *tremendous* benefit.
Of course, I don't go hogging 1/8" off in a single pass, either...
And the blades on the 735 *are* resharpenable, if you have a light touch. After 15 months or so, and many hundreds of board feet, I'm still on the original knives.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
You can bet it's a *chunk*. That sucker weighs around a hundred pounds. "Portable" planer my @$$ !
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
They didn't seem to have any problem selling to me. I went up to the point of buying to see what shipping was. $90. Kinda made the low price pointless.
The messages may be in the archives. Some comments from people who DO have them have been that one speed is slow and the other slower and after the first few passes, little difference in cut is noticeable.
My first message said I wished I had waited for a DW735 but DW734 has been very satisfactory. DW725 blades are referred to as "disposable" as I guess any blade is but the DW724 blades are intended for resharpening.
Walt Conner
I agree that the shipping is very expensive, but for some people, getting it at $469 after shipping will be a good deal. Even on Amazon with free shipping and $25 off of purchases over $199 it ends up at $475. Hopefully people that are close to them will get a better shipping rate. It is a heavy beast for sure. I UPS'd a 24lb tenon jig to someone on eBay and it cost $25 for that. Shipping is expensive for heavy items.
It would be interesting if you lived close enough to Seattle whether or not you could just pick it up. That would be a deal at $379.
Pretty likely actually that the paths will cross and at some point the high spot will be missed again as the two paths cross. Still you have missed my point. Planing with a planer is not a finish job. It is intended to take the wood down to a desired thickness. If you are sending the wood through again to try to eliminate high spots caused by a nick, you are wasting time. You have to sand or scrape the board surface anyway why run it through the planer again.
Large stationary planers Need 2 speeds. The fast speed is much faster than a portable planer's fast speed and the surface it leaves is totally unsatisfactory. The slower speeds on the stationary planers is smoother and takes most the scallops out left by the high speed pass. For portable planers the fast speed is slow enough to prepare a surface for scraping or sanding. The slow speed may save you a little scraping or sanding time but after the blades develop nicks the finish out of the planer is going to look pretty much like any other planer. The nice smooth surface out of the
2 speed planers lasts as long as the knives are cutting perfectly.
Yes initially it is. I believe however that that is going to be short lived relative speeking considering the life of the planer.
If you have not nicked a blade yet, you are probably have not done much planing yet when compairing the true life expentency of the blades. Planer blades get nicks and there is no way around that. These nicks are not a problem and are to be expected but as this normal cycle happens the quality of the finish that you are seeing now will be gone. And you are right, there is no rule that you have to turn all the knives at the same time but why do that. The improved finish will be short lived again. IMHO uee the thickness planer for thicknessing not finishing.
That is a nice feature on that model. You can simply run a hose to a trash can and by pass filling the DC.
I have absolutely no doubt Doug that the finish out of my planer would put the finish out of my planer to shame. I would not however use either finsih as the final finish. I am going to scrape or sand regardless of what comes out of either planer. When your planer blade gets a nick that wonderful finish is gone and switching blades or moving blades to try to eleminate that ridge that will show up is a waste of time since scraping or sanding will remove the ridge effotlessly while scraping or sanding the final surface. The slow seed IHMO is at least an extra step to planing or more time consuming when planing.
No I do not have that planer but am compairing to my OLD Ryobi AP 10 planer that I have had since 1989. I have resharpened the blades 10 or so times. The blades on this planer are between 3/32 and 1/8" thick and about 1" from the back to the cutting edge with plenty of sharpenings left.
I use the same sharpener. I find it dificult to remove much material off my blades at all using the planer blade jig. The knives that came with my planer are bimetal. I guess that is what you would call them. ;~) If you look very closely you can see that the cutting edge a seperate material. It is about 1/4" front to back and about 1/2 the thickness of the whole knife blade. I will easily be able to use all of the cutting edge material as the knives have enough in mounting adjustment.
I actually would probably go with Dewalt's latest and greatest if my next planer is another portable. I am simply not sold on the 2 speed feature as being one that will be of benefit through the whole life of the blade. Small nicks in a blade are of no matter to me as the ridge in the wood surface gets sanded off during finish sanding. So for me, the slower finer planer speed would be a waste of time. It is not going to prevent me from having to finish sand for a couple of minutes after running a board through the planer.
I agree that the refurbish is the better deal. While I absolutely do not agree that they are not used at least 1 time. If a tool is rejected in a factory the pieces are generally dismantled and melted down again. Rebuilding a brand new saw to be sold at a discount is expensive, more expensive than simply building a new one.
By definition, refurbish is To make clean, bright, or fresh again; renovate. Brand new units never leave this condition.
Typically the refurbished units are shipped from the factory to be sold and for what ever reason are returned to the factory for credit. If the unit is still in sellable condition it will be refurbished and resold as refurbished.
Toolking is the place I found the refurb for $399. They also only list $6.99 for shipping, which seems odd for a 100 lb item, but....
Oregon has no sales tax, but here in the center I'm pretty much limited to the borgs and a bunch of places that tend to run significantly more expensive, so if I can mail order something like that with a reasonable shipping cost it works out well.
Tim Douglass
Nothing like that close, more's the pity.
I've owned a lot of refurb tools and have never had a problem with any of them. I consider it a very good option when price is a concern (which it always is). When I bought my air compressor refurbed at HD the guy there told me that they had a lot of those that were picked up by a contractor for a single job then returned for credit when the job was done. HD used to (maybe still does) have a "no questions asked" return policy. That compressor is still going great, but it has taken years to flush all the crud out of the tanks, since the previous user evidently never bothered to drain them.
The chip collection thing is one of the major selling points to me, since I don't have any dust collection in the shop yet. Add the more rigid design in and it starts to look better and better, regardless of the number of blades etc. I do like the slow speed idea just because it might help on highly figured woods, which are a large part of my justification for purchasing - the cost of that wood in a planed form is unbelievable - far better to try to find it in the rough. It would probably only take a couple of projects for the difference in cost to pay for the planer.
Anyway, it's a bit in the future, I raised the "guitar for planer" plan yesterday and received one of those looks that asks you how you like sleeping on the couch. It's odd - I don't actually play the guitar but I own this very nice one...
Tim Douglass
I picked up the DW734 in December during an Amazon sale. It has worked great on everything I've sent through, quilted maple, curly redwood, oak, walnut and myrtle. The finishes on everything were great, with small passes even the curly redwood came out just about ready to go.
With all the rebates and discounts it came to ~$225 out the door.
-SAM
Tim Douglass wrote:
I think their shipping is "free" but they charge a small per-order fee.
I don't use that as the final finish, and I do scrape or sand afterward. But I have noted that there is less scraping and sanding needed if the final pass is a light cut at the slow speed.
And from my perspective, having had hand surgery twice in the last 8 months, anything that reduces the amount of scraping and sanding I need to do is a Good Thing. :-)
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
I hear you... In all seriousness, Have you ever used the PC SpeedBloc? This sander is sooooo smooth and raises a cloud of dust. I sanded a bunch of small pieces with this sander last weekend and I held the sander at a 90 degree angle with one hand and held the pieces that I was sanding with the other hand. I did this for about 2 hours straight and never had a hint of strain to the hand holding the sander. I have had this sander since 1989.
Leon,
From a general use standpoint I agree that sanding or scaping should be done post planing. When the blades dull some you will get some nicks in the wood and it is probably better to scrape them out vs taking another layer of wood off.
Where I find the 2 speeds critically different is in highly figured woods. Birdseye maple used to tear out horribly with my old Delta
22-540 12" planer. With the new Dewalt, on the slower speed, there is minimal tearout if any at all. Additionally, in very hard woods, my single speed Delta used to leave waves of ripples that needed scraped and sanded out. Given that it was on all of the boards run through, it meant a considerable amount of time, so slowing the speed down and running a final pass is well worth the time.David
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