The directions for Deft say not to thin it. If necessary, they have a
proprietary thinner, but I've always thought that lacquer thinner was
OK to use.
Does anyone have a strong opinion about this?
I know that each layer of Deft is supposed to reliquify the layer
under it, so there is no need to rub it out between coats. But to
extend drying time, and therefore leveling time, wouldn't it make
sense to thin out at least the last coat?
All hot tips about Deft are welcome.
When wood edges were all the rage on countertops, all we used was
Deft. LOTS of Deft.
I can't imagine thinning it. It is quite thin as it is. If leveling it
is a problem, are you in a cold area? Or aren't you putting it on
You have to use lots. A fine sanding sponge scuff does help in between
If Deft won't level, it is usually for that reason. It is one of the
more forgiving finishes out there, and I have put it on so thick it
looked like the bar top finishes. Still came out fine.
Unless your temps fall below the 60s in your application area, you
shouldn't need to thin. I have sprayed (great), rolled (good but
leaves a very light orange peel), brushed (small areas, great), and my
favorite, padded (with store bought pads) barrels of Deft in the last
To me, it is the great unsung hero on your hardware store's shelf. It
is as reliable and predictable as they come. Before six panel doors
became the rage, we used to give a natural finish to stain grade birch
doors when doing interior finish outs, and often used it for interior
cabinets as well.
There are better finishes out there, but not too many that are easier
to apply that give you the lacquered professional look that product
Amen. I put as much as I can hang on a vertical surface without sags,
and on a horizontal surface I put as much as 4 mil thick. I allow
extra drying time when I apply it that thick, but that's about it.
Shame on you! You know better than that. Stop with the sanding
between coats on fresh lacquer! I'll bet if you asked your new CNC
machine, it would tell you exactly the same thing.
Seriously, sanding between coats leaves behind dry debris and
introduces the possibility of fine scratches into your substrate. And
if you miscalculate, you can pill the surface and ruin it in places
where your material is thicker and not cured.
Just a scuff to knock off some dirt bumps. Not to level brush marks. I
always has great results from Deft...that's some wicked strong and
Spraying Deft is a delight. (They say not to, because it is nasty and
one needs a proper booth and respirators.)
I find the build a bit slow, 3 or 4 coats minimum. If I am spraying a
serious piece, I spend the money and go to a 3-part acrylic, like
Sikkens. Yes, it is expensive, but almost all solids and the best
durability ever...and doesn't yellow (Deft does). And once you work
out the ratios with matting clear, you can vary the sheen from 0 to
100%. And gloss is gloss... the wet look without that poured epoxy
Have you ever tried Water based Deft?
I don't get that. I have heard and read that before, but I don't
think it's any worse than any other high VOC product. A really
healthy respect for its fumes are a must.
Ahhhh.... the siren's call of more sophisticated finishes.... hard to
resist, no? The Sherwyn Williams guys just gave me about $600 worth
of stuff (clear sealers) to "have fun with" so they could start
selling more of their upper end product.
Their industrial coatings rep/guy got so excited after we talked for a
while that he kinda ran away with himself. All I wanted was a couple
of gallons to test, but all he had on hand was a fiver, so he gave
that to me. It is an interesting product. You can add vinyl to it to
make it more washable, or an acrylic to make it more wear resistant,
but not both. You add your selected chemical, then some catalyst, and
you are off.
When both parts are added, it will last just two hours in the gun, but
90 days if mixed in the 5 gallon bucket through the bung. My problem
is this; I don't want to crack the five and get a gallon out to mess
with as it will start the clock ticking on the five. On the other
hand, there isn't a way in hell I would take this stuff to a client's
house without thorough testing and practice.
No. I have heard through the grapevine it is a pretty good product,
but no call for it on my end. Our air and shop requirements around
here are still pretty loose, so no one minds the high VOC safety
issues like they should. With that in mind we don't have much water
based anything besides latex paint being used around here.
I have used "Defthane", which is their polyurethane. I only sprayed
it, never applied it any other way. I went on great; one time I shot
it out of a high pressure gun (unthinned) and it was perfect. Another
time I used an HVLP CAS gun and thinned about 10%, and it too went on
very well. I probably didn't need to thin it to shoot it with the CAS
gun, but it slid out of the gun quite well.
I shot it on an exterior door that catches a lot of sun after
stripping and staining. I see that door every once in a while, and
after 4 years, it looks like new. Of course, seeing that now, no one
around here carries Defthane, even if they carry the Deft lacquers.
Are you shooting much water based stuff? If so, on what?
I would not thin it. I can understand thinning for use in a spray
gun. Light sanding (320 or 400 grit) between coats is traditional for
a smoother finish. Sanding raises dust so there is extra work
involved to clean and tack rag. Examine the surface with a work light
at a low angle--you'll easily see the flaws that way due to shadows.
If smoothness is not an issue, don't sand between coats. Whenever
possible, I lay the piece horizontally to allow the finish to spread
more evenly and prevent sags or drips.
Finishing is a scariest procedure in woodworking. Good luck!
You can thin Deft if you want to. I have but it really isn't necessary.
I tend to use the proprietary thinner at least once since lacquer thinner is
a real witch's brew of solvents and they tend to be optimized for each
lacquer. Once I know what to expect, I try different thinners hoping to be
able to get good results with a less expensive thinner.
If you want to extend drying time to give the lacquer a chance to level,
you need lacquer retarder, not thinner. Be careful not to overdo the
retarder or it will negatively impact the lacquer film.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.