Cool video and I that is how I have made thin moldings for years.
If you send both sides of the wood through the router you can make 1/2 the
trips back and forth between the RT and the TS. There is typically no
reason to not cut from both sides of the stock. With smaller moldings you
can work all 4 corners at the RT before ripping at the TS.
Second, I do not recommend using a feather board for indexing the width of
the cut. Because feather boards are designed to "give" you could have
inconsistent cuts with more delicate moldings. You would be better served
with a fixed and non flexible indexing fixture.
Your video and execution was great. I cannot suggest anything to do
differently concerning your sound or lighting.
When watching you at the TS with your garage door in the back ground, Scott
"whatshisname" from American Woodshop came to mind. Clutter in the back
ground. Yes I know you are just getting into this and I think you did a
superb job but I think you could possibly take this much farther.
Presentation was great. Make the whole picture appealing to all and you
will appear to be more credible IMHO.
Scott for example spent several episodes a few years back building his new
American Woodshop. Today the place looks like a pigsty. Total
Agreed, however the one I was using is very stiff (hard plastic). If
you don't push it into the featherboard hard and just let it
'contact', it works fine.
You will notice that I didn't end up doing it that way, just offered
it up as an alternative.
Brian, I'm at best a hobbyist with nowhere near the knowledge and skills
you have - just wanted to say that I appreciate these little tidbits you
share with us... may never need to know "how-to" on a lot of such
things, but that doesn't mean I don't learn something from each one I
view. So, thanks!
Understood, I work in similar conditions. Please don't take my clutter
comment in a negative light. Seriously, I think you could make more of
this, you have the stage presence. It was 100% better than I could'a done,
The polish worked well.
Thanks Leon. I'm hoping to produce a new one every two weeks or so.
I hope to have a mix of 'beginner' and 'intermediate' content (I
wouldn't feel comfortable presenting 'advanced' woodworking
techniques- If I know any that is.)
On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 05:50:17 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
If you want to get serious with it, I'm not sure what kind of camera
you're using now but one thing you could do is use a dslr with video
mode. These are capable of having a smaller depth of field, which
allows your subject (you) to be in focus but not the background. It's
not going to clean up the shop for you, but it makes it less
noticeable so the viewer's attention goes where you want it. Dslr's
now are making it possible to get professional quality HD video for
not much cost.
The lighting, it looks like maybe you have a floodlight pointed
straight at you. There are times when there's a clear shadow behind
you or the wood you're holding catches the light and is blown out.
Ideally you want to diffuse the light, either by using expensive pro
lighting or just by bouncing it off walls or ceilings to spread it
out. If you had a white ceiling to bounce light off you'd have it
easier. A dslr helps out here too because it doesn't need as bright
lighting, without the noise becoming unacceptable.
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