Let me know your thoughts on this:
- posted
11 years ago
Let me know your thoughts on this:
Probably my setup as I have a new computer. Yuck!
rails, trim following curves, chair legs, etc., and occasionally have problems with grain direction and figure that can ruin a piece of stock very quickly when routing to a pattern ... often when lea$t expected.
This looks like an easily effected solution for those situations.
I also like the idea that it allows my tapering jig, similar to the one you are using, to do double duty ... half way there already to a working solution. :)
And, as long as you're using a bandsaw to rough cut the parts before pattern routing, you might has well cut out that last, sometimes problematic, routing step altogether.
This will be very useful for my purposes, IMO.
Thanks!
I got the idea from a book I have and added the tapering jig to make the operation easier. I was surprised how well it works. I thought the blade might have a tendency to move out of the notch and cut the template, but this didn't happen. Worked great.
As I'm sure you are aware, it's not going to leave as smooth a cut as a router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.
Thanks Leon.
router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.
What about an adaptation/design for doing this:
I generally cut curved chair rails out on the bandsaw, then have to sand them by hand to final form, which can be a problem making them identical ... and, when there is jig of some type in the following production steps, like drilling angled mortises in the CBR's, _identical_ is of utmost importance.
Just thinking out loud ...
snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote in news:e69f266b-6970-4596-bce3- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.
Should work on those rails. Getting it clamped in the tapering jig after one side has already been cut might be a little challenging - but certainly not impossible. Might need toggle clamps w/ a long reach or develop another way to clamp it down.
Not sure how you'd make it more like a pin router (having just looked up what a pin router is). I've not come across those before. Now you've got me thinking how I can make my own pin router. Thanks a lot :)
Drum sander with a bearing guiding on a template.
Having tried "sanding drum", and home made "offset templates" for an oscillating spindle sander, IME they aren't well suited to roughed out blanks, as they bring in another set of problems of their own ... less precision, marks and flat spots.
A band saw solution for accurate, repeatable template cutting, is what is intriguing to me ... a bit of finish sanding is expected ... but that is all the _sanding_ I care to ever do if I can help it. :)
I asked because the inside curve in the specific application is somewhat of a fly in the ointment for the jig as it is shown in the video ... one that calls for some of Brian's brainy adaptation skills with regard to a _band saw jig_ ... and his jig acumen in general.
IOW, trying to pick the lad's brain ... :)
I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and probably do the concave cut first.
Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the way of an inside curve/concave cut.
A triangular shaped jig, with business end at the apex and the base having two points that could be secured in the miter slot, instead of one?
Nice little project, too. Kudos, sir.
-- The problem with borrowing money from China is that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again. --Steve Bridges as Obama
Simple solution, Split the rail that fits in the miter slot and use a flat top/counter sing washer in that rail. As you tighten the top knob the screw expands the split rail and the rail tightens in the slot.
I have a feather board that uses that method of staying put in the miter slot.
Crap, Use a flat top counter sink screw in that rail.
Ha! I like that idea. A split miter bar that could be expanded from above to lock it in place perhaps. Hmmmmm.
I just posted the same solution. I really should read all the replies first.
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