Thank you. I get the feeling people don't appreciate sitting through a lon= g intro each time and skip it anyway. So I chopped it down to about 4 seco= nds. It's a sorta rip-off of the 'Rough-Cut' intro. Instead of a hand-pla= ne creating the letters I have a router. =20
LOL. Oh heck no. Post ASAP, the information is vital! There is the possibility you or I may not have been beat to the punch.
lock it in place perhaps. Hmmmmm.
There is little in the physical world more resistant to forces than three symmetrical points, joined linearly on the circumference of a circle, resulting a rigid frame... a fundamental engineering principle. :)
What about DuctDuck Tape?
Yep ... and, according to the Internet, a triangle made of duct tape is more powerful than Stephen Hawking's mind.
Uh, bwan Jyour ...
operation easier. I was surprised how well it works. I thought the blade might have a tendency to move out of the notch and cut the template, but this didn't happen. Worked great.
Oh, one thing I meant to mention was to lower that upper guide during cutting, once you know the final height of the workpiece. (Yu already know it prevents the blade wander.)
but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.
It's also quite a bit quicker. (Once you have a template.)
-- The problem with borrowing money from China is that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again. --Steve Bridges as Obama
collection, I have a question or two.
First, doesn't plywood make the business end of the jig a little rougher than optimal for the template to ride on? If the template is masonite or mdf, won't it tend to wear?
Second, I'm wondering why you made the jig so narrow. I find myself thinking that a triangle - lets say equilateral - with two slots in it to attach to the runner underneath, could hold the jig steady without the need for the featherboards. The sides of the jig could conceivably get in the way of a very convex workpiece, but so would the featherboards. Using stout enough material, the jig could even be tee-shaped.
Continuing further down that train of thought, you could make the jig nothing but a small circle with a recess for the blade, but glue that circle to a piece of mdf that would cover the whole table surface. The mdf could have runners underneath to keep it stable. A setup like that could allow even more unencumbered cutting.
By the way: If it wasn't abundantly clear, I have no bandsaws, so calibrate your responses accordingly :)
Ugh. Of course, that should read "concave" workpiece.
Using the same train of thought above, and Brian's inspiration, I pretty well designed one in my head last night ... either an equilateral or isosceles triangular shaped jig; with two feather board type miter slot mechanisms (as shown in the link below) at the base of said triangle; and a metal insert for the template for the blade/business end of the jig.
I've already got a couple of these laying around from old feather boards ... two of them toward the corners of the base of a triangle and that sucker would have NO movement whatsoever:
That is exactly what I have and was referring to. If it fits the slot loosely add masking tape to one side, it will stay put and or last a very long time.
one miter slot and it is on the out side of the table. To be workable the jig would have to be fastened to the table with bolts. Doable, but not simple. Clamps might work if there were no obstructions on the underside of the table.
of the table.
Although I have two tables for my band saw, one with a miter slot that would work well, I would have to remove the home made table insert to use them:
I think you've come up with a great solution Brian. Should have got your patent before you told us. 8-)
Mike M
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