I've been having some difficulty using the "scary sharp"
system to sharpen with sandpaper on glass. Specifically,
I find that plane blades and worse yet chisels tend
to catch and tear the sandpaper, even though I am using
a Veritas jig. I think I am using a reasonable amount
of pressure, much less than I do on a stone. I have
had some luck trying to sharpen on the pull stroke,
rather than the push stroke, but this does not seem
optimal. Any suggestions on how to avoid this
Mike Lacy, Ft Collins CO 80523
Patience, patience, patience -- and an extremely light touch. It sounds
like my first experience not so long ago.
You're probably doing fine. I wrecked a few pieces of sandpaper before
developing a touch for it.
Make sure you get wet/dry sandpaper with "tough backing" some makes
worked better than others.
TAS - Try it And See method for sandpaper types...
I use an "Eclipse" guide, and reverse the blade so that the handle (in
the case of chisels) is pointing away from me, with my thumb tips
near the edge of the blade, and my finger tips on the blade on the
other side of the guide. Push away, with pressure on thumbs, and pull,
with pressure on fingers lifting the blade edge off the paper.
I also use the same method for honing on a leather strap.
I do it, donwanna pay a mountain for good stones myself and this
method seems to make much more common sense to me because
of the great area to work on and for the cost of paper from time to
My glass is 3/4" thick float glass. This is expensive to buy new
unless you have a local junk shop that has a conscientious owner
who knows what to stock, so I paid $10, 18"x18". It is very very
FLAT! I just wish it didn't have 1/16" beveled edges.
I use Norton and generic aluminum oxide papers and 3M super 77,
slightly sparingly so there are no rises in the surface or weakening
wetness, it dries quickly. When I lay it down, I do it so that it is
entirely and evenly flat but the most important part of that is first
(as well, after use) I use cheap paint thinner ($2.97/gal @HD)
and paper towels to clean the glass thoroughly of previous dried
super 77 which would otherwise cause lumps.
With all that, I never tear into the paper, maybe I have about twice
the whole time I've been doing it but every little common detail
adds-up to it. And I'm not so supremely light on the touch either, I
do some hard grinding when needed.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 14:35:41 +0000, good ol' Bob wrote:
Sideways has its uses, but beware of leaving microscopic scratches
parallel to your cutting edge. I'd agree with the parent poster to, say,
600 grit, but then I'd suggest sharpening normal to the blade edge.
Whether or not you subscribe to the notion of the weakened edge, you can
sharpen at slightly different angles with different grits. This makes it
very easy to tell when you've removed the scratches from the previous grit.
Keep a loupe or hand lens handy.
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
I still rip the paper some, but not so much. Problem seem to be thickness
variations (paper or glue) that are invisible until too late. I found that
the sharper the blade, (finer the grit) the more likely it is to tear.
Especially when doing the microbevel.
I found a light touch works wonders, after all you're just polishing the
blade. When I kick the angle up for micro bevel I do the first few strokes
I don't think there's a need for a heavy touch on this method. Why work
harder than you have to? Let the abrasive(s) do the work and roll the jig
along as intended. I use a long piece of jalousie window glass which I pull
the abrasive sheet around and tape it down to the backside. Cheap $4 piece
of glass, and nicely flat. I'm also inclined at times to use a wet sheet
which will cling to the glass nicely.
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