Any tips as to how? I've an old Walker Turner "Driver Line" table saw wgich takes 8" blades, and sharpening and setting would be useful. I don't want to take them to a shop. Maybe "top" the teeth, as with an ordinary hand saw, sharpen with a file and set using an ordinary saw set.
Ideas?
If they are carbide tipped, you will need an abrasive rather than a file.
One option is to use the table saw itself as a grinding jig. Here is one example:
As JR has said, it depends whether they are TCT or not - because you mention "setting" I guess your blades are HSS. I would consider changing to TCT - they're generally superior to HSS and last a very long time with the occasional removal of resin deposits. New TCT blades are available quite cheaply so I think it's better to buy new if the tips get chipped. I'm currently using Axminster blades on the table saw
and an absolutely brilliant Makita B-09058 Makblade on the mitre saw. Here's one of the many guides:
I've got some TCT blades, but they've a 20mm bore, this machine (1930s?) has a 5/8" bore. I've a few blades for it, dado cutters, etc, and I want to sharpen them.
I found some useful information on:
Page 14 and onwards of:
Well, if you decide to use the TCT blades a bore reducer ring (from 20mm to 16mm (5/8")) will cost you less then £2 - here's one of many suppliers
Coo! There was I about to make up a bushing. That's much easier, thanks!
Your link showed using a diamond coated disc. I have rather a large number of tct tipped cutters to sharpen from severely blunt and have been using a green grit wheel but it's so time consuming I'm about to try a diamond wheel on an angle grinder. A couple of questions:
1) Why is it this is being done dry, diamond tile cutters seem to be used wet? 2) How do you judge the pressure, presumably too much and it rips the diamonds out, too litle gives no effect.BTW back on subject I always sharpened my 36" logging blade with a millsaw file but sent it away to be gulleted and tensioned once a year.
You can get grit based wheels as well - or even grind the teeth off an old saw blade, and stick abrasive paper on the sides of it.
The wet often being to control the dust when tile cutting. However be guided by the instructions for the abrasive.
You are removing very little material - so heat build up should be low.
You can probably see the effect by watching the corner of the carbide you are sharpening - so pressure no heavier than required to see the result you are looking for.
In my case I am having to remove 1/8" of TCT about 1/8" thick, I remove the backing steel first to the estimated depth required with an ordinary wheel and then attack the tct with the green grit.
To be economic I need to get the time taken for each cutter down from about 10 minutes to 5 minutes or automate it in some way.
The last time I purchased a blade it came with two bore reducing rings.
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