I first line up my eye to both the leading and trailing edges of the
apropriate side of the blade (the teeth, not the body of the blade)
and then, without moving my head, adjust the mark on the piece to line
up. All this with one eye closed. I don't see the problem with
paralax. I get cuts right where I want them...
thanks for the pics in abpw, cool guard. Am I right, the sides pivot
up independently with the top remaining stationary? Much better &
simpler design than I've seen before! Ever considered/tried connecting
dust collection to the top? Seems I get too much dust, what with a
zero clearance plate.
That's exactly how it works. The sides were stolen from the factory blade
guard and simply bolted to a wide 1/2" thick piece of Lexan. The whole
gizmo is connected to a counterweighted sliding beam that hangs from the
ceiling. The articulating sides handle all kinds of evils. For example,
cutting a 1" wide strip with the left side of the guard fully down and the
right side fully up to clear the fence.
I'll be posting my solution to dust collecting pretty soon. Yes I had dust
collection on this guard and it worked pretty well for ripping. But I
encountered too many situations where I could not use it effectively
(crosscutting, using a GRRipper, using Grip-tites, using Tenon Jig, etc.).
I decoupled dust collection from the guard - watch for my pictures.
Sun, Oct 24, 2004, 5:23pm (EDT-3) email@example.com has been dreaming
again, and says:
It occurred to me <snip>
Never heard of such, but I suppose.
But, I think if I needed extra light, a flashlight would be enough.
When you choose an action, you choose the consequences.
Appears to be a good idea. It was in the
shop hints section of FWW many years
back. Some reader wrote in suggesting
it. Think he used a plain old 40 watt
with a switch. I'd worry about a dust
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