Considering the web site above, it is most assuredly a Type 10 (1907-1909),
w/original iron. If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure the rear
handle has been replaced
and I don't have the original box it came in. ;)
I got more interested in planes after I read "The Hand Plane Book" by
Garrett Hack. It was a very nice read 3 years ago and I'm sure I would
learn plenty from another time through. It has excellent pictures too, in
anyone is searching for a good book.
A Type 10 - very nice! Corrugated or smooth sole? Stanley never made them
during this era. I have a couple of Type 10s myself; most of the rest are Type
Nah; it sounds fine just the way it is. If it was "all original in the box"
you'd have to
put it on the shelf and look at it instead of using it! Congratulations on the
and enjoy your plane (and the next one, and the next one...)
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
There is probably grain running somewhat side to side vs. running
completely end to end. If you were to cut a new slat that was parallel
to the wood grain, it would be much stronger. And of course, if you
used a stronger wood, that would help, too.
Elmer's yellow woodworking glue vs. Titebond? Pretty comparable,
really. Elmer's should be "stronger than the wood", same as Titebond.
See below for some supporting data.
I am guessing Lew suggested epoxy because it is strong even when you
have gaps, good when repairing cracked wood such as you have.
For some general info on strength of glues, here's a link to a test
done by Fine Woodworking (the link works only if you pay for their web
They tested, from best to worst,
SystemThree T80 Epoxy
Elmer's Carpenter's Glue
Liquid "Old Brown" Hide Glue.
Moser's Hide Glue
on Maple, Oak, and Ipe. For each wood, they tested on tight, snug, and
The Titebond III and epoxy were neck and neck througout the test, with
Elmer's a close third.
In general, all the glues were within shouting distance, although
Gorilla Glue had poor results on loose joints and was overall the
Admittedly, the hype surrounding Gorilla Glue piqued my interest as well, but I
apprehensive about it and only used it a couple of times in situations where I
was "ok" with
the possibility of it behaving unexpectedly. However, since reading the
article in Fine Woodworking I haven't touched the stuff.
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
A salesman at Lowes pushed me to it. I haven't opened it yet.
I bought some to glue washers (one on each side) to a painted hollow
wooden closet door to (hopefully) resolve the damage caused over time by
a long bolt which goes through the door to hold a knob on.
The hole for the bolt has wore into an oval through normal use making
it "sloppy". For better or worse, I designed that solution myself.
From this thread, it seems like the epoxy may be a better choice than
the Gorilla Glue. Would I be well advised to remove any paint (I was
just planning to clean well)?
I'll be cutting the "washers" myself, so that I get a perfect fit, but
that's another story.
By the way, thank you for all of the kind and thoughtful comments about
my new plane!
First, do remove the paint--glue and paint do not work and play well
Second--regardless of its adhesive qualities, Gorilla Glue foams a bit--try
it on a sample and see what you're dealing with--I think you'll find that
for the purpose you're describing it's going to be a pain in the butt just
because you're going to have to deal with the foam-out.
I'm glad you mentioned that because one of the reasons I am making my
own "washers" is because I need them to be very thin (and I think I can
make washers just like I need in 1% of the time it would take me to buy
them). From what you've said, Gorilla Glue is clearly the wrong choice,
and, once again, I was led astray by an overzealous salesperson.
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