Stuff at tomorrow's auction

I went and previewed the tools:

They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. I've own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one? I know it's called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for smoothing?

Dewalt 705 Compound Miter Saw (if it has dust collector, it wasn't attached). Will take another look tomorrow. I suspect it would be handy sometime. I would bid on it if the price is really right. What would you pay?

Any thoughts?

It's not all about "need", "want" counts too right? :)

Reply to
Bill
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By the way, the miter saw is 12".

Bill

Reply to
Bill

You can by a new DeWalt 10" for $199.

705 is not a current model.

$75, MAYBE?

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Thanks. I appreciate it. Bill

Reply to
Bill

I'm sure my wife thanks you too! ;)

Reply to
Bill

You would find it used to make boards incredibly straight and making glue joints that will rub together and make up without clamps. :-)

Reply to
Lowell Holmes

That's "touching"... ;)

Reply to
Bill

What kind of question is that? Of *course* you need it! :-)

I wouldn't use it for that; too heavy. Your smoother is generally going to be your most finely tuned plane, with a tight mouth and razor-sharp cutter, adjusted to cut shavings thinner than a piece of paper. Not that your jointer shouldn't be razor-sharp as well, but if you tune it the same was as a smoother then it's going to take you all day to flatten a board. Its sheer heft combined with inertia allows you to open the mouth a bit and take bigger cuts.

Those videos that Leon posted the other day offer some wonderful education on how the various types of planes can be used to great advantage. Here they are again:

Glide Leg Vise

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Bench and a little handy plane work. ;~)
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Vise
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Reply to
Steve Turner

g to be your most

o cut shavings

r-sharp as well, but

day to flatten a

th a bit and take

my handplanes & it was great exercise & a lot of fun.

Luigi

Reply to
Luigi Zanasi

I've got a 19th century #8 and love it. Just the other day, I assembled a blanket chest and one of the top rails was about 1/64" proud of the leg on one end. A few strokes with my #8 took care of that and still left the rail top flat.

I've used a #7, but the added inertia of the #8 slices through the tough spots (like knots) with less hesitation.

At the time I bought mine, I got it for $80 including shipping only because a previous owner had drilled one side for a fence and the collectors didn't want it. If the one you're looking at is pre-war and truly excellent, I'd say anything under $100 is a bargain. If it's post- war, leave it for someone else.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

Another plane fan (probably someone I've bid against and spoken with before) had already submitted an offer of $20 but he wasn't present, so I got the plane for $25. I was delighted to hear the silence as the auctioneer did his thing. It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is pre war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework on that.

For anyone who doesn't think I have enough clamps yet (and I don't), I also bought an 8" C-clamp and two 6" C-clamps for for $9 altogether. I thought they might come in handly for the jig Lew suggested which makes the jointer unnecessary, among other things..

Now I need some small clamps to make minor drawer-related repairs to a dresser I bought which my wife and I Really Need (one dresser got broken in our recent move and I let another die of natural causes during the same move). I should have taken Lew's advice and bought a few small clamps already. Is there an advantage to Tite-bond glue over Elmers Glue for repairing a drawer support which has cracked? I ask merely because I have Elmer's handy. There is ALOT of surface area to glue to make the repair (so I think it's an easy repair). Is there a recommend way to retouch minor scratches (I'll do my homework on that too)?

I'm sure the "saga" of the Wednesday auction will continue. Thank you for your suggestions and for listening!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Wednesday Auction?

Where I come from that meant livestock.

I like epoxy and/or epoxy fairing putty for that type of repair.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

...

No, they're either Tues or Thursday... :)

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Reply to
dpb

Tell me the women sold chicken dinners and also has a bake sale to raise funds while the auction was being held.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I'm curious to hear just what type of #8 you snagged for $25 (you suck, by the way). You should be able to tell in reasonably short order with the help of this website:

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Reply to
Steve Turner

"Lew Hodgett" wrote

Just to confirm, I am referring to the "popular", but not see in FWW, drawer mechanism of a single shaped "slat" being hugged by a plastic piece on the bottom of the drawer. One of the slats is cleanly split in two--probably from someone turning the drawer while it was open. Evidently, the slat is subject to stress (torsion?).

From what I can tell, the advantage of the epoxy glues is their flexability. Is that why you suggest the epoxy here. Would my "Gorilla Glue" be just the opposite (non-flexible), and comparably a poor choice? Some people speak of Gorilla Glue like it's almost "heaven sent"... :)

Lew, I've seen some of your "yacht project" online; if you don't mind my asking, what sort of projects are you doing now? Is the yacht still in the picture?

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Routinely that ceased about 20 years ago, sadly... :(

The lunch counter still operates as a home-cooking "blue-plate special" kinda' place but mere shadow of days of yore...the prevalence of direct-sales to the packers from feeders cuts down the sale to mostly feeders and smaller lots; almost no finished go thru the ring any more.

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Reply to
dpb

w/original iron. If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure the rear handle has been replaced and I don't have the original box it came in. ;)

I got more interested in planes after I read "The Hand Plane Book" by Garrett Hack. It was a very nice read 3 years ago and I'm sure I would learn plenty from another time through. It has excellent pictures too, in case anyone is searching for a good book.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

You really suck!! I felt the suckage all the way to the Yukon!

Luigi

Reply to
Luigi Zanasi

It also, especially when filled with micro-balloons(fairing putty), has gap filling ability.

It is very forgiving stuff.

IMHO, Gorilla Glue is the most over priced and under peckered crap available.

It fills a gap, but it adds no strength.

Stuff is about as useful as breasts on a boar hog.

I use either epoxy or TiteBondII except for resorcinol when working with white oak which is standard for wooden boat construction.

Moved on from boat.

In between projects.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

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