I have been thinking about expanding my sharpening. I currently have a waterstone with what I think is a 1200 grit side and 6000 grit side (It was so long ago that I bought the thing). I'm pretty happy with the results. I can shave hairs and all. Am I missing anything by never having tried stropping as a final step?
If so, whts best for basic chisel, iron and lathe tools? Flat, powerstrop? Does a powerstrop have to be leather or felt? Why not just turn a disk of MDF and charge that with compound?
Actually Woodcraft.com just came up with that exact product, it should work (in mdf blocks). but I wouldn't trust it for flattening a back, considering the possibility of running the blade into the mdf. I think a steel Kanaban is the right idea for flattening, all around.
But... I do use a leather strop of horse butt hide, just rests on a piece of plywood and charged with Lee Valley green (0.5 micron) on one half and cheap blue emery on the other half, as a starter. I use rendered beef fat boiled from chopped up tallow, rubbed into the leather as a media for holding the grits, you only need a very small amount at a time.
I think horse is not the best idea, too thin and soft. I would recommend thick strapping hide from the beef industry as long as it is smooth with no niks, very tough. Think "saddlery".
It works incredibly well, and if you use a micro bevel the strop will round it to a safe degree. I cought myself with that one, and I pivot every joint from shoulder to wrist to keep that bevel flat as possible on the leather. It will take it way beyond
6000 grit quite well, and you will find a micro hard bur there, not the kind that builds up and breaks off, but like a razor. But takes a bit of "work", in which case, you can make your own "wheel strop" for the drill press, and on that you can use both the sides and the flat top. Lowest speed!
A hand strop is all you need to finish up an edge. Mine is a 12" scrap of saddle leather glued to a 3/4" X 2" scrap of wood. A few strokes puts a mirror finish on chisels, planes, knives, etc. Charge it with any iron or Aluminum oxide buffing compound. I mix a little chunk with mineral oil and rub the mess into the leather. Charging only needs to be done occasionally when it slows down the cutting action. Bugs
That's understandable, but the "mirror shine" is not what we're looking for. It's the actual sharpness, and it does take longer than a few strokes, many more than.
If you have a Case that will take an edge like that, you got real lucky. I quite buying them some years ago as the quality of their steel has gone way down hill. Worth it to the company i'm sure. Probably saved them a whole $.03 per knife to go to crap steel.
Since the first one about 57 years ago, the only pocket knife I've not been able to lose is one I wouldn't of been caught dead with for most of that time ... a *&$#*&% 'Swiss army' knife that keeps turning up in my pocket no matter where I leave it.
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