The Tormek will do the bevel - but not the back of the chisel or plane
You "can" use the sides of the wheel to "flatten" - but it doesn't do a
very good job of it. The One Wheel Does Both Coarse and Fine thing is
a bit deceptive. They say it'll go to the equivalent of 220 grit but
actually go finer - if you don't use the coarse/fine "stone" on the
The leather stop wheel I got wasn't flat - or round. Tormek recomends
taking a file to it to make it flat and round but I never was able to
mine either flat or round. Their "accessory" carving strop seems to
work better when I use it's flat side to polish with. But both leather
"strops" are too soft for my liking - and can round the edge because
of their give. If I want sharp and shiny I use a flat, smooth piece of
shoe leather - sole leather - and some aluminum or titanium oxide.
The leather has almost no "give" to it so it's harder - though not
impossible - to round my sharp edge.
As noted by another responder, you can get a Japanese Waterstone
for the Tormek. But since it's the slurry that makes them work best,
and since the Tormek's wheel runs through a water bath on each
revolution, I'm not sure how much slury stays on the wheel. And,
as you know, Japanese Waterstones need to be flattened often
as the finer ones wear pretty quickly. While Tormek's diamond
dressing tool sort of works on the regular wheel, I don't know how
they dress the japanese waterstone wheel. I don't think I'd want
to use a diamond dressing tool on a japanese water stone.
Keeping the wheel flat - AND parallel to the jig support arm is
critical to wheel sharpeners/grinders.
For smaller (under 1 1/2" width) flat chisels and plane irons there's
the Lap-Sharp (tm) which is the heavy duty, precision high end lapping
system. Definitely pricey.
It's less expensive, not as heavy duty nor as precise clone is the
which will also handle turning and carving gouges and chisels using
disks with the abrassive on the bottom. That lets you sharpen from
while seeing through the disk. Lets you see what you're doing - as you
it rather than the grind-chek-grind-check method.
Both will do the bevel AND the back. The guy who invented the Lap-Sharp
(tm) is a precision phreak and carries a little 100x pocket microscope
with him to show customers the difference between "shave hairs off
your arm" sharp and a truly sharp - polished to a mirror finish -
The "consumables" for these lapping disk set ups is a potential issue.
The Lap-Sharp (tm) uses some pretty high end 3M abrassives which,
because they're "single source", are not cheap. The WorkSharp can
use any PSA abrassive 6" disks.
But, given your described uses, I supect that the japanese waterstones
you have and know how to use are your best bet.
Here's some stuff I put together on my WorkSharp