I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat
platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design)
and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have
I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
And I'd be interested in knowing how that setup would work on a chisel
with a microbevel. Maybe if the blade edge were immediately adjacent to
the edge of the platter it would be more efficient?
Just curious (and ignorant, but want sharp tools)... I just got a
grinder and I'm tempted to put a felt wheel on it just to try and I'm
thinking a microbevel would prevent the wheel fibers from reaching the
tip of the blade. And how much bother would this be compared to just
having a strop handy next to the workpiece?
Maybe you were answering to this, but I was thinking specifically of
when the chisel is being supported by a plate (which my understanding
led me to believe was for the purpose of preventing rounding over of the
edge while being stropped by the felt wheel...)
Now, do the plate and the inset caused by the microbevel serve to remove
the edge from the effective range of the wheel?
CHISEL ` <- bevel (say, 30 deg.)
` ,- area occluded
microbevel (> 30 deg.) -> \x`,
-------------------------------------- <- PLATE
'scuse my ASCII, I imagine that'll look like dreck in a browser. I
imagine placing the edge near the edge of the plate would take care of
that (if it's an issue...)
[I stuck a bunch of replies in the same post for your filtering pleasure.]
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:11:18 -0800, Enoch Root wrote:
Forget the rest of the bevel. Work out the geometry just for the
microbevel. The powered version just works faster.
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:32:24 -0800, eganders wrote:
You're not sharpening; you're honing. Grinder shapes, stone sharpens,
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 22:55:39 +0000, John B wrote:
( This guy doesn't shave the hairs off his arm, he cuts 'em lengthwise! )
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:36:49 -0800, eganders wrote:
Honing, not sharpening. Practice, practice, practice, and check out some
websites (dags) on honing straight razors. Strop away from the edge: it
matters a lot for razors, but with knives it's just protecting the strop.
Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" He's got the electron
"Keep your ass behind you"
wreck20051219 at spambob.net
1625 rpm motor+arbor with 6" circle of MDF and jeweler's rouge (sears).
Sharp and FAST! Can't take credit for the MDF, idea came from a
fellow rec'r. Whole shebang for under $20. It's sad to see someone
who needs a $300 setup to sharpen chisels or irons.
It would appear that leather (if I could charge it well enough) would
be even better since it is harder and would not seem to have a tendancy
to round the edge. I have one cut out to put on my platter (the
Veritas knock-off), but when I first got it it was stiff and was not
flat (It is a really thick piece of saddle leather). I have soffened
it a little, but the smooth side is hard to charge. The more suede
side seems very rough--rougher than the felt.
What approach do you use to manually strop a chisel? I would think
that the only direction you could use with a chisel would be away from
the edge which seems like a hard way to sharpen a chisel.
Felt under power is pretty rigid. How you hold and press the tool
determines whether or not you round over.
I strop away on leather, just like the barber. Same on felt. As to
"microbevels," makes a better edge with stropping, doesn't remove enough
material to matter.
Sharpening knives seems good with a strop, but I can't see how you can
maintain the correct angle easily. I would assume that you have to
draw it only 1 way (away from the edge) or you would cut the surface of
I use this for honing carving chisels (works fine) but not for bench
chisels (a leather strop is a lot handier).
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
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