I have to weigh in on Kim's suggestion. Heavy runs have a very bad habit of
not completely curing inside and trying to sand them can turn things into an
Shave off the run, sand lightly and follow with auto compound then auto
An option after shaving is to tape off an area around the damage, use an
irregular shape, an elongated diamond shape with the long points parallel to
the grain is good, and start laying in light coats of deft from a spray can.
When you have a small build you can work it with the automotive products
feathering the edges of the diamond.
I advise the diamond shape because, like a Dutchman, it blends easier then a
rectangle that has defined cross grain lines. They really stand out and are
hard to hide.
Don't know much about lacquer but with varnish runs are best dealt with
using a very sharp cabinet scraper. If used carefully, only the run will be
removed and the surface can be touched-up perfectly.
IIRC, we had something similar to this a few months back on the wRECk, and
someone came up with a tool specifically made to deal with runs. May be
wrong here, but seems to me it was an "automotive" finish tool that used
your standard single edge razor blades, acted like a miniature plane to
shave off runs in a finish. Anyone welse recall this?
This fellow is exactly correct. If you go too far, instead of spraying the
additional finish, just brush it on then after a few coats use 400 grit or
something finer to block sand the local area then buff.
Trust me, I was a auto body man for years, and I has sure paid off when
finishing wood. Has worked for me for years. Use a hard block to sand , and
sand lightly in a random manner.
If you use a double edge razor blade, tilt it a little and bend it, the corners
will be lifted up so they don't cut the wood and you will be using only the
center of the blade. You can use it this way pushing away from you or drawing it
Put some masking tape on the other edge.
"Norman D. Crow" wrote:
I would NOT try and scrape or plane the run. One small mistake and you
are into the wood and now you have a much bigger problem with the
color involved. With Varnish you have to scrape but with Lacquer you
can use different methods.
I "polish" runs out of lacquer all the time (I am not too good with
the gun). The nice thing about lacquer is that thinner will always
open it back up.
I would: Get a lint free cloth, saturate it with lacquer thinner and
slowly rub out the run, applying more thinner as it evaporates to keep
things slick. You may rub through to the wood in places but no
Then recoat the area by brushing with thinned lacquer at least 50%
thinner and if you have any retarder available (the kind to avoid
blushing, not the non-flash type) add some in to help leave the
lacquer open for the brush lines to settle out. Using a good 2" brush
recoat the area. Stroke only once or twice and on the final stroke
keep the brush at 90 degrees to the surface, this minimizes brush
strokes. (lay the piece on it's back if you can)
Feather the first coat a few inches past the effected area. You can
recoat in 1-2 hours, no sanding in between. Put the second coat closer
Let it dry completly (2 days at least). Then CAREFULLY wetsand it with
320, then 400 staying away from any edges, then hit the entire area
with steel wool or whatever method you used as a final step
If you waxed it before make sure you clean it with Naptha first. If
you wax it now, that can be the final step to completly hide any
differences left for the eye.
firstname.lastname@example.org (TopekaRyan) wrote in message
I KNEW I remembered the subject of shaving runs came up once before! Keeter
posted a URL to the website last year. Just looked it up, found this:
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