What is the theory behind levels?
I've heard that carpenter's are more precise than those used by bricklayers.
I have examined the ones we have here and there is no indication as to precision on either so the only way to tell would be the mortar stains on one of them...
Think how annoying it would be to use a bubble level that was 100% accurate. Different fluids having different viscosities yield different sensitivity. More accuracy may be justified for a transit (surveying tool), I don't know.
In the spirit of chess, it's to give a comparative ranking to the individua l players. BTW, are you the Swedish grand master?
Otherwise: ???? I suppose it's to help make things level or as level as possible, no matter what the profession. I've never heard that one profes sion's efforts are more precise, than another's.
"Something" is either level or it's not and the particular or different lev eling tools make for achieving the goal as best as possible, in/for the par ticular scenarios.
When I bought my old pillared house, I suspected it wasn't level. I made a 100' water level, with 1/2" clear tubing. I was able to gauge the floor 's levelness from one or more point(s) to any/all other point(s). That wo uld have been much more difficult with a 4' level.
Sonny
No :) Berg is common last name (means "mountain"), Emanuel or Manne/Manny less so but still not that uncommon.
In the math world perhaps...
Here, the floor is so uneven even people who are slightly drunk can hardly stand. I used a marble to find out just which way it went and it instantly rolled into a corner :)
Precision can often be based on the size of the bubble.
My pet peeve when it comes to spirit levels are bubbles that are too small.
If the bubble is so small that there is a relatively significant gap on both sides when trying to level something, then the user is left to "eyeballing level" by trying to get the gaps even via sight. There is certainly a lack of precision when that needs to be done.
If the bubble is large enough that it almost touches (or perhaps just touches) the lines, then finding level is not as much of a guessing game.
Compare the full-size bubble in this level...
...to this short one:
All else being equal, which one do you think is more precise?
I would assume so. The masonry and frame structure had better line up somewhere. ;-)
FOr masonry, the overall level is set up by the corners and strings are used to mark "level" every several courses. The mason's level is used to speed things up and keep things from going too far out of whack between these "absolutes".
Something is "close enough", or it's not (nothing is perfect). To that end, I can imagine a trade-off of sensitivity for speed.
I use water levels for many things. It's easier to set up siding, for example, with a water level. Set the level on the house, and measure from there. Drains, landscaping, and concrete work, are other useful applications for water levels. Gotta make sure to get all the air out of the tube, though.
Interesting discussion. I've never really thought about it, as far as accuracy goes. I really doubt that a carpenter's level is more accurate than a mason's, but who knows. My gut is that *if* there was a difference, it would be the other way around since carpenters pretty much only need level or plumb for about
8ft. And even then with framing, 1/8" off plumb at 8ft is still considered ok.In any case, the big difference is with durability. A mason will often use his level to tap brick/block into place. Also, it's easier to clean mortar off of wood.
And your tube needs to be 3/8" dia. or larger, I was told. A smaller dia. tube would allow for the water's adhesive forces to affect the internal flow, possibly giving an inaccurate reading..... and probably more so with a longer tube.
Sonny
The marble or the drunk?
strictly theoreretically, the small tube should eventially be just as accurate as the larger one but it might take half an hour to rersolve instead of half a second - - -
Not so much the size of the bubble as the size relative to the reference lines. A smaller bubble, with the finer line spacing to match, would by default create a more "precice" level. ASlso. the diametric ratio of the tube (Vial) (or curve, in the case of a single position level) also affects the accurace. The tube of an "all position" level is larger in diameter at the center, and smaller at each end. Some crappy cheap chinese levels are inaccurate because the widest portion of the tube is not at the center, or one end is wider than the other.. The bubble MUST be able to rize to the highest point when the level is "level". The larger the radius of the vial, the better the sensitivity - measured by the number of degrees of tilt required to deflect the bubble a given distance. A virtually straight vial (infinite radius) will be so sensitive that it will be virtually impossible to center the bubble - the bubble will always be either at one end or the other.. Engineers levels , transits, and machinists levels tend to be large radius vials,and very sensitive and precice, while "framing" and "bricklayers" levels tend to have a smaller radius and less precision. A bricklayers level may be less accurate as well due to being banged around more - so the bubble may be off center slightly (out of calibration) Calibration error can be quickly checked by turning the level end for end on the same surface and noting the relative displacement of the bubble.
Ha ha :)
My dad's favorite carpenter's level was wood with a brass edge, but the one he used most was aluminum because it stood up to bouncing around the back of the truck with all the other tools and supplies.
That's right! I noticed this today when I almost hurt my eyes trying to get the bubble in the middle!
Use it to "level" a board, then put a cup filled with water on the board. The cup will confirm whether the board is level.
Isn't that to take it back a level, having to use utensils to verify your tools?
But just once...
You can add dishwasher rinse aid to the water to help prevent that.
BTW, we're forgetting about the plumber's level. It has three lines. 1st is level, 2nd is 1/8" slope in a foot. 3rd is
1/4" slope in a foot. I think I have those number correct.
Just put it on something level (e.g. another level), then flip the level end for end and top for bottom. If it doesn't read level after any of the steps, throw it as far as possible and start over (with another level).
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