Sure looks pretty, but there isn't much of the drawer front left at the
outer edge of that joint. I'd be worried about it cracking at the thin
spot if someone yanked on a heavily loaded drawer. (Of course that may
just be me over-building everything as usual...)
Usually that type of joint is used where there is a bit more wood on the
outer edge--overlay fronts, for example.
The design was inspired by the Rogowski book. His example is right
along the edge. The slot seemed fragile until I filled it with glue
and a red oak dove tail. I'm not concerned for durability. But don't
drop the drawer faces before you piece the drawer together...
Very nice Jeff but like Chris has indicated the joint is vulnerable to that
unexpected time when the drawer may be out and gets dropped or something.
You never know. Other than that, the joint looks good and is stronger than
a standard rabbet. You might consider drilling a hole in the sides into the
drawer front and sliding dowel pins in for a detailed look and to add
strength to that joint if you have any worries down the road.
No. My wife had a digital camera from work and I took a quick snap of
the drawer. It's a black walnut / red oak sink cabinet with a marble
top. I built a matching black walnut medicine cabinet. I'm waiting for
mirrors to finish it.
I've always heard that joint called a "sliding dovetail". If you'd
gone with a "stopped sliding dovetail" it wouldn't show at all
from the top - obviously not what you intended.
Handy joint for other applications - shelves, dust panels
and the like - and not that hard to do with a router,
router table and a decent fence. Not so easy to do with
a flush mount drawer. Nice work - though it wouldn't
be my joinery choice in this case - half blind dovetails
are stronger and have a higher Just Showing Off factor.
More pictures of the piece - and maybe some How and
perhaps even some Why?
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