I've already done quite a bit of googling but still have a few questions.
My daughter has a large screen tv and I'm building her a entertainment
center for it which will consist of 2 bookcase type towers with a shelfed
bridge across the top. She wants it made from knotty pine/pondorosa pine and
have a old pine look. I plan on using shellac, blonde for the first coat
and garnet for the finish coats.
1. I read where urathane can put put of dewaxed shellac (I ordered the
shellac flakes from Rockler and neither the bottles nor the website say what
it is). how do I tell if it's dewaxed.
2. I plan on brushing it on since I'm not that accomplished with the spray
gun yet and the jar said to use a 2lb cut for seal coat and 3lbs for finish
coats. I've read somewhere in the archives to finish with 2lb.
Where do most of you by your shellac, this stuff cost 6.99 for a 2oz bag.
If I do try to spray it what should I cut it too. I work at a dealership and
have a quality body shop gravity gun.
And any other suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks, Mike S.
n0yii@sbcglobal dot net
I've used Zinsser's sanding sealer (dewaxed shellac) as a base with good
I purchasd mine at another local WW store for about $8 a qt. I'm pretty
sure I saw
it at the local Rockler's also though.
I usually apply mine with a disposable foam brush, removing and marks with
sanding between coats.
This product comes as a 2lb cut with instructions/mixing ratios to reduce
Their regular shellac comes as a 3lb cut, but, I normally thin it to a 2#
or a bit less and
build up with an extra coat or two.
My earnest suggestion for you is to use a rag to apply an approximately
2# cut. It's easy as pie but it will take quite a few coats to get the
proper build. It's the easiest way (rag instead of brushing) to get a
level finish that will need little sanding. I've also sprayed shellac
with HVLP, but it's usually more trouble than it's worth. I usually
sand LIGHTLY with 320 or 400 after about 5 coats. Then I put on another
couple of coats. I finish up with the maroon, gray, and finally a white
pad if I want a hint of gloss. Shellac will dry enough in under an hour
to recoat, or to sand, even under 60 degrees. It's suitable for using
down to approximately zero degrees, AAMOF.
Mike S. wrote:
If you really want to know if you have waxed or dewaxed shellac is just
let it sit a while. If you mix it in a mason jar just put it on a shelf
for a day or two. If it's waxed all the wax will be at the bottom. If
you have waxed and want dewaxed just siphon off the shellac and leave
the wax. You will get a warmer finish if you rag it on and not brush or
spray and a 2# cut is fine for that. I sometimes spray a 1.5# quick coat
as a sealer for stain. If you spray it you cut it with what you mixed it
Generally, if it doesn't say it's dewaxed, it isn't. That's a gross
What David said about padding shellac is 'money', and David sprays
almost everything else. The information coincides with/may have come
from originally the guru of shellac, O'Deen hisself. Following his
simple instructions has made project finishing with shellac almost
Pricey that way, isn't it? Woodcraft, www.hockfinishes.com.
www.homesteadfinishing.com, elsewhere. Most I've paid was $22 for a
pound of german-refined, ultrapale, dewaxed special blend.
Zinsser Sealcoat is premixed, dewaxed blonde, 2# cut, $8.50, in quart
cans at Home Depot. The 'regular' canned Zinsser has wax in it, and is
just fine, unless you want to top coat it.
You can spray it with a Critter siphon sprayer. I would think a fancier
rig would work, too. But padding is great.
If I can find O'Deen's instructions, I'll repost them under a seperate
I have been doing some "antiqued" Pine pieces lately. To get the faux
old look you might want to try the following. I'll post a picture
tonight of a recent project I did (if you're interested).
First I use a belt sander with 80 or 100 and create some random gouges
along the edges. I've found gouging out faces is not as succesfull,
just looks bad when stained. Then I punch random holes. I use the
points of a pair of tin snips, back edg of a claw hammer and create
some dings with a 2lb sledge.
Pre-stain conditioner, stain with minwax Puritan Pine, then the (not
so) secret, I paint it with a dark brown or black glaze (interior paint
with glaze thinner) and wipe it off immediately, leaving it in the
crags, holes, seams, etc. I use a wiped poly and buff it down with wax
but shellac would be nice too.
I don't bother adding dings and such to my pine projects (not on
purpose, anyway :-), but I do use a somewhat similar approach for
finishing to get an aged look. I start with Minwax "natural wood"
stain, and then I use Plantation Walnut wiping stain (thinned as
necessary) applied and wiped off immediately to give a bit of color.
I follow that with a homemade brew of turps, spar varnish and BLO
tinted with a bit of artist oil pigment. Wipe on, let sit for a few
minutes and wipe off/buff. Repeat as necessary.
This has come as close as anything I've found to matching the "old
pine" look that's common on southwestern or Mexican style furniture.
(You can see an example at:
I used to use shellac; a three or four coats of garnet to get the
color I wanted and then topped with a couple of coats of blonde for a
bit of protection for the color coats. SWMBO said it looked too
"perfect", so that's when I started playing around with other options.
Chuck Vance (who still prefers to finish with shellac whenever
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