sawing lumber on my bandsaw, right...

Hard to say, from here. Are you using a sled? What have you tried?

er

Is this the same saw you bragged that had no problem right from the factory? Take it back and get a Jet.

No, I have not tried a sled. The bottom and the side I have against the fence are pretty flat, so I didn't think I needed one; I have just been running it though the saw (well, trying to run it though the saw) against the fence. It worked for the black locust. I can make a sled up easily enough and see if it helps.

If you bothered to read my post, I said I was doing something wrong. I am certainly not blaming it on the saw. But thanks for your moronic advice.

Any possibility that you forgot to tension the blade properly?

It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

Woody

That isn't the blade the saw came with, is it? You might also consider one with lower tpi for resawing big boards like that.

Everyone raves about the woodslicer blades, and I'm happy with the suffolk blades I have.

Or wax the wood and send it to me. :)

er

With a 1/2" blade it has to be jumping out of the guides to get a 30 degree drift, it's true.

Toller, your guides... they're snug up against the blade?

er

I'm thinking the walnut is still very green - the 4t/inch is filling with sawdust, friction is heating up things inside the cut and swelling the moisture-laden wood so that the blade just gets to a point where it can't move. When the teeth fill and we push harder and the wood starts to bind the blade, it'll wander toward the neighbor's place.

Try a 3/8" 3 tooth blade - preferably with a generous set to the teeth so that it cuts a wide kerf to help keep things open. Timberwolf sells such a blade just for cutting wet woods - I think Highland Hardware has one as well, but I'm not familiar with any wide set to the teeth on that one.

Yeh, it was cut down yesterday!

Would it help to let it dry out a few weeks? I am in no hurry; just want to get it done more or less right.

Not real tight, I am a little scared of too much metal-metal contact. I have a set of cool block that I haven't installed. Would they be okay for this? I intended to use them with a thinner blade. Or should I just set the steel blocks tigher?

What size saw do you have? Everything I have read says 3/4" won't work on a

As someone else said, I think it's too wet for the TPI.

I've used a 3/4" 3 TPI to cut mesquite firewood into (short) boards and did the first cuts freehand without issue. But it was Arizona bone dry.

They work on my 14" 3/4 horse ridgid and are "recommended" for resawing on the inner door panel, but I think they suck.. I do much better with a 3/8" 3 tpi blade..

I've found that the things that give me the most trouble on the band saw are things that can rock.. even a little bit... they constantly change the blades attack angle or whatever and make it bind..

I use a method now that I think I remember getting from Charlie B's site? which is simply setting the wood on a flat piece of scrap and running a few screws into it (away from where you're gonna cut) and running it through the saw "flat stock side down".. Mac

I have roller bearings on mine, and set them so there is very little sideways play for the blade. A little more for the rear bearings (a bill folded twice.)

Cool blocks will also work, but you shouldn't require them for a 1/2" blade. You can bury the blade in the cool blocks I think (don't have them myself) and let the blade make its own clearance.

er

Edwin takes no prisoners.

What you're running into is a common problem for turners as many of us get our wood from local sources and is usually very green. Some dripping wet fruiting cherry I recently cut into bowl blanks was a breeze - intermixed was some Big Leaf Maple which would bind and do what your Black Walnut is doing. I don't think waiting a couple weeks will make any difference because not enough moisture will be removed from the interior to help matters. You might try posting your question over on rec.crafts.woodturning to get their take on it.

Hmm. I have one, and I've used it, and it works. But I have the riser block, as well.

er