Rusty drill press column

H2O the universal solvent, also lubes.

Kero and a wire brush? Followed by fine samdpaper and a coat of Boeshield or paste wax?

It can, and has! ;-)

What I want to know is whether, or not, I need to ground my dust collector?

Water sex is overrated. Use KY.

Well clueless apparently you are just that. It was said, and I agreed, WD-40 and steel wool. The steel wool cuts the rust loose and the WD-40 helps to wash it away.

YOU should reread what the OP was requesting, hint, not anything other than removing or smoothing it down.

Jeez!!!!

There are those of that have done, and the rest simply read something somewhere and regurgitated it. ;~)

I don't know if it needs to be grounded, but I got one heck of a static shock from my improvised dust collection system. I have about 15' of pool vacuum hose running along the ceiling of my shop and an adaptor that allows me to connect a standard 1.5" vacuum hose. The pool hose runs back to the wet-dry vac in the miter saw stand. I use the small hose for my sanders, Kreg jig and general cleanup uf of the workbench.

I was vacuuming the workbench the other day and holding the plastic end of the hose in my right hand. I reached over the hose with my left hand and an arc jumped from the hose to my left arm. Hurt like hell. That was the first time it happened in the few months since I installed the long pool hose a couple of months ago. I wonder if it will happen more often once the furnace is running and the house dries out.

notbob wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

Thing is, it works. It doesn't work very well at times, and it doesn't work as well as other products but it works. There's probably a can in every garage that doesn't need it and about half of the ones that do. (Just the way the universe works.)

Puckdropper

snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Would WD40 sex be better?

Puckdropper

Wire brush to start, and while steel wool is OK (wear gloves), it's more convenient to use those black/brown/maroon Scotchbrite abrasive pads to get the surface clear-ish. You don't want to remove metal, just the brittle surface rust.

The finishing touch would be some metal polish (really, just some Mother's on a rag), and a water wash, followed by dry and either wax or use a film-creating oil (boiled linseed oil works). Washing is key, if there's any salt in a pit, it'll attract water and rust again.

It is stoddard "solvent", not "oil". Jes cuz it is a petroleum distilate, does not make it a lubricant. Is gasoline a lubricant?

BTW, water is also considered a "solvent". ;)

nb

You may or may not be right. All I know is that my drill press had rust on it and it looks like new (and is staying that way) after I sprayed it with WD40 and scrubbed with some steel wool.

AAMOF leaded gasoline is a lubricant.

I'm so very happy for you (though, I suspect "scrubbed" is the operative word, here).

Did you try Simple Green and steel wool? I know, by experience, it will remove melted rubber (and most anything else!) from motorcycle exhaust pipes. Jes warm the pipes enough to touch w/o being burned and apply SG, then rub w/ 00000 steel wool. I think it even removes the "bluing" (common to older single-tube exhausts) near the head.

Wranglerstar, a YouTube regular, has tried several rust removing tricks. He actually recommends a regular "rust remover" (not Naval Jelly), which he compared along side white vinegar. The "remover" worked better, but I forget its name. ;)

nb

You're asking me?

Actually, TEL is a fuel additive. More specifically, an "octane booster". Jes cuz car/motorcycle magazine editors called it a "lubricant" for 4-stroke combustion engine valve seats does not make so. ;)

nb

Just common knowledge.