Rusty drill press column

[Greg Guarino]

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

[Bill]

One of those rust removing "jellies", and a wire brush?

[krw]

[Steve]

I owe some of you an update on my Table saw rust conversation, and will do so in short time...

What I used recently was called KRUD KUTTER: THE MUST FOR RUST! (Google it.) It's a water base; worked well AND you can leave it on as an inhibitor. I was satisfied with the results. (Ventilate well.)

That should get you to the point where you can tell what metal is good and what metal then needs to be further abrased or removed.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Empire Top Saver and steel wool. Available from woodworking suppliers and Amazon.

[Spalted Walt]

8-/

[DerbyDad03]

Maybe not Amazon...

Currently unavailable, they don't know when or if it will be back in stock.

Maybe not anywhere...

A few forums have posts from folks that can't find it anymore.

Woodworkers Supply shows it in their website, but without an item number. I called and they said it appears that Empire may be out of business.

If you have a source, a link would help. People seem to like it, so I'd like to try it.

[Ed Pawlowski]

That sucks. The only source I know of right now is the bottle in my garage.

[Michael]

WD40 and steel wool.

[Leon]

I do not think Empire is in business any more.

[Leon]

+1

[dpb]

Far easier than steel wool is fine (240+) wet/dry paper or emery cloth...can make long strip and do the back-forth pull much easier than trying to scrub w/ steel wool. Plus, it cuts quicker.

After remove the bulk, polish with 400+ and will be good as new...

[krw]

That's a lot like work. There is a reason they don't use WD40 and steel wool on battle ships. ;-)

[Markem]

Used WD40 and 0000 steel wool on a RAS column.

[notbob]

Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!) is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit the buyer's fantasies.

I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor. It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of viscosity,

1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc, though they call each something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a light lubricant in their formula, since so many clueless folks have mis-used them as "lubricants", which they were originally NOT!

What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at my local sprmkt. ;)

nb

[J. Clarke]

Chipping hammers aren't any less work, they just remove more rust at a whack.

[dpb]

On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote: ...

WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty. "Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the '50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's probably better at those than it is for the original purpose. :)

[krw]

Considering that a fixed amount of rust has to be removed, I'd say WD-40 and steel wool would be a *lot* more work.

[Steve]

Yup. It sells. So does Minwax and water based Primer "for wood." So do tickets to MLS Soccer matches, for that matter.

Anyway, I have a friend of a friend who likes to dip his bait into WD-40 as a fish attractant. Maybe they should market that as another! (Ok, maybe not!)

[Ed Pawlowski]

The argument will go on forever. Most any liquid has some lubricating properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a better job in some circumstances.