Liquid glass resin gone wrong and need to rub back!!

[Chris Alifragis]

I have an area of 1200x600 table top that has a veneer design with different colours on a black background. After pouring the dark veneers got really darker and are hardly seen, and some areas on the black look cloudy. I want to rub back the resin so I can add lighter veneer replacing the dark ones and repour liquid glass resin hoping to get rid of the cloudy areas What grade of paper do I need and how long do I wait for liquid glass to cure. It has been 2 days since the first pour.

[Iggy]

replying to Chris Alifragis, Iggy wrote: Here's a great little video that seems to address your situation perfectly, the need for thinning, leveling and torching. See YouTube: DIY- How to apply "Liquid Glass" Epoxy Resin on almost any surface

[J. Clarke]

Except that his question is how to remove it, not how to apply it.

[dadiOH]

Cure depends upon what "liquid glass" is. It could be polyester resin in which case it would be totally cured after 2 days, assuming it was catalyzed properly. If it is epoxy, it would not be totally cured in that time but would be sandable.

How coarse a grit? How thick is the resin? I used to use something around #16 and a very open coat with polyester. Basically use whatever grit needed to do the job but personally, I wouldn't even think about trying to sand it off a veneered surface

[Iggy]

replying to J. Clarke, Iggy wrote: You are correct, thank you. I must have been distracted. I'll post another answer.

[Iggy]

replying to Chris Alifragis, Iggy wrote: Sorry about my first answer. But, I'd have to agree with dadiOH that sanding could result in ruining the veneer. Therefore, I think I'd go with a heat gun and a very gentle scraping of the problem areas. I'd then re-apply in those areas with more heat gun use to let the fresh and cured bond and seal together. I haven't done this and the above is just a theory, but I imagine that is should work quite well and save you from scraping the whole top to start completely over.