I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week later it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I called Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big question; Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know ' which one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it with a dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work but, hey, you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a long, stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly). TIA, C
Rust control on machine tables
Oct 11, 2006
24 Replies
I read a little about it and from the applications that I saw, I don't think you'll be able to get it to set up... Just my humble two pennies worth.
WD40 will probably take it off pretty easily... You'll definitely want to make sure that nothing in the Quicksilver doesn't make any unpleasant (i.e. explosive or poisonous fumes) side products.
Good luck...
The best rust preventitive ---- Use it more often!!!
I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about Boeshield. It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.
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Boeshield works very well.
Jess.S
company. That is where the boe comes from in the name. And they license it for sale to everybody else.
I guess if it is good enough to make airplanes with, it ought to hold up well in our basement shops.
I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out.
I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming, but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice - very nice for jointer tables.
As for removing the other product and helping remove rust stains, I've had good luck with Boeshields Rust Off.
Mike
TopCote is what you need....
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would remove that Corrosion Guard with kerosene.
C & E wrote:
Thanks to all. I haven't used Boeshield because it's not available locally. I'll leave this on until I can get it, though. Thanks, C
If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you might quit flying.
Please enlighten us...
We use canning wax, just rub the block on the the iron.
And it smells nice, too!
An underrated and inexpensive shop cleaning material and lubricant.
As a guy who participates in his own annual inspection on his "spam can", and lives in the land of Pratt & Whitney, I agree.
On the other hand, it can be looked at from the point of view that aircraft are much lower precision than the average bear might think. A few parts have very close tolerances, but the rest is just typical machinery.
"Aircraft Quality" is a fanfreakintastic marketing term, though!
We have cold wet winters and hot dry summers. So my cast iron stuff is= in a shop that's unheated much of the time. Perfect conditions for condensa= tion.
When I set up this shop about 15 years ago, I used paste wax about once= every month or two. Then every quarter, and finally once a year. So far no = rust.=20 I think there is a cumulative effect.
--=20 It's turtles, all the way down
Are you talking about TopCote or Boeshield?
AFAIC, Boeshield smells like dead...something....muskrats maybe?
TopCote DOES smell pretty good.
TopCote!
[...snip...]
Well, I am a pilot that flys small planes, admittedly not all that much, but that is one type construction I haven't seen around the airports much.
On the other hand, the planes I fly, say a single engine Cessna or a Piper or a Grumman, are made to be lightweight and a lot of that metal will flex: you are supposed to step "here", but not on "this" or "that". And don't grab "here" to pull your seat forward, but only "there".
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