I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today. I
was able to remove them with a little scrubbing, but what do you guys do to
protect the surface from rust. I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my table
saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
It is conventional wisdom that waxes which contain silicone may give you
problems with some wood finishes. If you want to be on the safe side in this
regard, diligent and frequent application of products that contain no
silicone, like TopCote, BoeShield and Johnson's Paste Wax are pretty good
protection for cast iron surfaces in most climates.
BTW, "Sandflex" blocks are great for removing rust from cast iron surfaces.
No car wax as it may contain silicone
To remove rust, Top Saver is fantastic. Comes in a spray bottle and has the
plastic scrubbies in the package.
To avoid rust, use either Top Cote, Boeshield, or a paste wax like
To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a tool
top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I take
a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
"A ship carrying blue paint collided with a ship carrying red paint. The
Lately I'm leaning towards the thinking that with the low
humidity where we live (don't tell the others/they'll just
want to move here) we're pretty lucky. I run the
de-humidifier during the "warm" weeks (that period between
July 1 and July 30) and do almost nothing the remaining
months. Also, you and I do have our shops located correctly
(basement/in a conditioned space). I don't wax my machine
surfaces at all and I don't see a lick of rust.
Also, I painted my shop floor and walls and while I don't
think it sounds like much I think that has created a great
And it does help to use the machines.
UA100, edgebanding white PVC today onna 'count of the Lee
Valley order came yesterday...
And does the Paint stay? The cellar I use as a workshop has a wall
that someone painted with shiny green impenetrable paint, and the
moisture that wants to come out of the wall has pushed the paint
togeter with the plaster off the wall (it's a standard elderly german
house with stone walls and no special tricks to keep moisture out)
Because of schedule (we needed to get into the house) I used
regular old porch paint (a latex product) from (insert big
box store here) and it's held up pretty well. There are
many,many, many quarter (twenty five cents) sized spots
where the paint has lifted but for the most part I'd have to
say that 99.50% of the floor is still covered.
I did go back one day and re-painted a swath around my table
saw and it's held up really good, actually looks great. My
thinking is to re-paint small sections (4' X 4' or 10' X
10') ever so often until the entire floor is re-painted. I
am leaning towards something other than the existing Sea
I used a wall paint with a fungicide and after 5ish years
it's held up. The foundation is cinder clock (CMU)
construction and somewhere around 45 years old. We do live
on the edge of a swamp though and the sump pump cycles all
day, all year round. Still, I don't experience rising damp.
I use my machines constantly. The weather here has been rainy/humid for
weeks. Wednesday I went into the shop and found everything made of metal
was "sweating" and needless to say, the table tops all have a small rust
forming. I spend quite a bit of time cleaning and protecting them,
Johnson's wax is applied regularly and Top Cote is applied more often, if
anything just to reduce friction. I've found nothing that eliminates rust
entirely. The machines can be fine one day, and have a thin layer of rust
the next depending on the weather.
For quickly removing the rust, i prefer to mist the tables with WD 40
and lightly wet sand with 600grit sandpaper, then dry with a rag. After
that, I apply Johnson's paste wax for protection.
The only way to completely prevent rust would be to condition the space and
keep humidity low by adding a dehumidifier if needed. --dave
Cheap box fan! I'm a believer. It's almost magic how well that works.
Johnson's paste wax helps too, but wax alone doesn't stand up to the
onslaught at certain critical times of year. The trick is to stop the
sweating in the first place, which the fan does by keeping the air moving
too fast to condense on the cool metal. Or something.
I still get some sweating in obscure corners of the shop that don't get
their air stirred up very well, but my rust problems have gone from
everything ferrous turning horribly rusty overnight to getting a few odd
spots of rust in obscure places a couple times a year.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 12:15:04 -0500, Silvan
I don't dispute that, but...
Why might it work?
I would think that the only variables of significance would
be the humidity, and the temperature. The fan would not seem
to affect either.
Can anyone help? (Or is this fan thing just coincidence?)
Don't count on it. What really matters is the climate you live in, the
"climate control" in the shop tailored to that climate, and judicious use of
rust preventative techniques and products.
There is no one solution to the problem, and especially not "use" ... unless
you're prepared to "use" a tool 24/7 in some climates.
That will not keep rust off of a tool in a humid climate unless you are
using the tool literally non stop. With out using TopCote I get rust over
night particularly after I have used it the day before.
The first year I had my saw I waxed it but then did nothing for a few months
Once warm humid day I opened the still cool garage door. I could see it
getting a brown haze as I stood there with my mouth open in astonishment.
Next day I bought a can of Top Cote.
My new saw 4 years ago rusted over night after I cleaned the coating off the
top. 1 coat of Top Cote was not enough for the initial application. Now I
reapply about every 6 months.
You mentioned Top Saver in another post. IIRC they invented TopCote and
sold it to Bostich.
wrote in message
Car wax is fine, if it's a high-end silicone-free product, like
Meguires <sp?> or Mothers. I'll bet Turtle Wax is full of silicone.
For that matter, keep the Armor All, Pledge, etc... out of the shop.
To be safe, stick with a good paste wax, available at any good paint
store. Good brands are Johnson's, Trewax, Briwax, among others.
If silicone contamination shows up you'll be ready to jump off a
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