Rust spots on new jointer

Anything with silicone in it will cause you grief when you want to apply a finish to your project(s).

It is conventional wisdom that waxes which contain silicone may give you problems with some wood finishes. If you want to be on the safe side in this regard, diligent and frequent application of products that contain no silicone, like TopCote, BoeShield and Johnson's Paste Wax are pretty good protection for cast iron surfaces in most climates.

BTW, "Sandflex" blocks are great for removing rust from cast iron surfaces.

No car wax as it may contain silicone

To remove rust, Top Saver is fantastic. Comes in a spray bottle and has the plastic scrubbies in the package.

To avoid rust, use either Top Cote, Boeshield, or a paste wax like Johnson's Wax.

To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a tool top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I take a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and clean.

Car wax is fine, if it's a high-end silicone-free product, like Meguires or Mothers. I'll bet Turtle Wax is full of silicone. For that matter, keep the Armor All, Pledge, etc... out of the shop.

To be safe, stick with a good paste wax, available at any good paint store. Good brands are Johnson's, Trewax, Briwax, among others.

If silicone contamination shows up you'll be ready to jump off a bridge.

Barry

Very true.

A bit of wax helps the action, though.

Barry

Lately I'm leaning towards the thinking that with the low humidity where we live (don't tell the others/they'll just want to move here) we're pretty lucky. I run the de-humidifier during the "warm" weeks (that period between July 1 and July 30) and do almost nothing the remaining months. Also, you and I do have our shops located correctly (basement/in a conditioned space). I don't wax my machine surfaces at all and I don't see a lick of rust.

Also, I painted my shop floor and walls and while I don't think it sounds like much I think that has created a great vapor barrier.

And it does help to use the machines.

UA100, edgebanding white PVC today onna 'count of the Lee Valley order came yesterday...

You don't turn green wood, do you?

And does the Paint stay? The cellar I use as a workshop has a wall that someone painted with shiny green impenetrable paint, and the moisture that wants to come out of the wall has pushed the paint togeter with the plaster off the wall (it's a standard elderly german house with stone walls and no special tricks to keep moisture out)

I use my machines constantly. The weather here has been rainy/humid for weeks. Wednesday I went into the shop and found everything made of metal was "sweating" and needless to say, the table tops all have a small rust forming. I spend quite a bit of time cleaning and protecting them, Johnson's wax is applied regularly and Top Cote is applied more often, if anything just to reduce friction. I've found nothing that eliminates rust entirely. The machines can be fine one day, and have a thin layer of rust the next depending on the weather. For quickly removing the rust, i prefer to mist the tables with WD 40 and lightly wet sand with 600grit sandpaper, then dry with a rag. After that, I apply Johnson's paste wax for protection. The only way to completely prevent rust would be to condition the space and keep humidity low by adding a dehumidifier if needed. --dave

"Unisaw A100" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Don't count on it. What really matters is the climate you live in, the "climate control" in the shop tailored to that climate, and judicious use of rust preventative techniques and products.

There is no one solution to the problem, and especially not "use" ... unless you're prepared to "use" a tool 24/7 in some climates.

That will not keep rust off of a tool in a humid climate unless you are using the tool literally non stop. With out using TopCote I get rust over night particularly after I have used it the day before.

Others noted re Si, etc. Another possibility would be to cover stuff at night w/ permeable tarps...these can help. Best bet is to climatize the shop if possible. Unfortunately, I can't in the barn where mine is now set up, at least until can finish closing in and put in some interior partitions and weather-proofing. :(

Cheap box fan! I'm a believer. It's almost magic how well that works. Johnson's paste wax helps too, but wax alone doesn't stand up to the onslaught at certain critical times of year. The trick is to stop the sweating in the first place, which the fan does by keeping the air moving too fast to condense on the cool metal. Or something.

I still get some sweating in obscure corners of the shop that don't get their air stirred up very well, but my rust problems have gone from everything ferrous turning horribly rusty overnight to getting a few odd spots of rust in obscure places a couple times a year.

A fan, running 24/7 for going on four years, is one of the best rust preventatives in my un-air-conditioned shop. May not work well in all climates, but it works like a charm here in Houston.

On that note, I occasionally looked after the machined surfaces in an air-conditioned shop, less than two miles from mine and with no fan, for a friend (divorcee) who was constantly battling rust in the shop her husband left behind.

Once she installed and kept a fan, running, her rust problems diminished to the point that she could handle it herself with occasional applications of TopCote.

Any new husband is going to be grateful, and not just for it being rust free ... the shop is 3200 sf, with a resident forklift! :)

I don't dispute that, but...

Why might it work?

I would think that the only variables of significance would be the humidity, and the temperature. The fan would not seem to affect either.

Can anyone help? (Or is this fan thing just coincidence?)

Thanks,

Howdy,

Yes.

Many car waxes have silicones in them. That (even in tiny amounts) can be the kiss of death for many wood finishes.

All the best,

...(regarding fan in shop preventing/minimizing rusting tables, etc.)...

Moving air across the surface causes higher evaporation rate that can help if moisture isn't excessive.

Swingman wrote: ...

Problem w/ the barn is, well...it's a barn! :)

Isn't tight, and original portions never will be...but it's best I got at present until get it finished and have time to enclose an area of the loft as a permanent shop area...so, I cover stuff up when it's going to snow 'n blow as now, or rain w/ wind....we're normally arid so just air-induced surface rust isn't too much of an issue except in cold weather (such as now) when condensation can be an issue. There, the cover minimizes problems as well.

There's enough draft normally through there a fan would be of little difference plus I don't like to leave stuff running out there even if it is "just a fan" w/ the various varmints that can and do inhabit the place either permanently or show up at night...