Routing question

Making railings out of 2x6 stock, 122 in long. The center will be dadoed for the pickets. The flat faces will have slopes near the edges created by table saw. Is there any way to slightly round off the corner where the sloping top face meets the remaining (about 3/4 in.) vertical edge. Other than sand paper. Think homemade threshold where the slight top slope meets the edge. Thank you!

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary
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Use a block plane, jack plane or fore plane.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Grind a scraper profile using an old saw blade (either handsaw blade or circular saw blade) and scrape the profile? Possibly, form/grind a profiled blade (iron) that fits into a hand plane?

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Block plane and sand paper or router and sanding, me I would go with a

1/4" round over bit.
Reply to
Markem

Markem, use a roundover bit riding on what surface? Using a plane soumds easiest. Did not think of that.

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

The 3/4 " left???

Plane and sanding vs router probably about the same amount time invested.

Reply to
Markem

I think you haven't visualized the problem sufficiently. A router cannot acomplish Ivan's task.

A _______ B / \ / \ | | | | -------------

End-on view of rail.

Ivan wishes to soften the corners A & B. Note that the slope will be much shallower than the ASCII graphics above.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Sonny wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Man, I hate people who cut up old handsaws instead of using them as handsaws.

Anyway, a slight roundover like the OP is talking about is a job for a block plane. It's just 3 or 4 strokes, and will go very quickly even on a 10' plank (it didn't take me long to take a 12', square stock to completely round, when I made the mast for my little dinghy).

John

Reply to
John McCoy

Yeah... understood and agree.

I meant for one that isn't usable, anymore, like the broken saw blade I use d for making my first cabinet scraper, which I still have, but rarely use.

Sometimes, I don't think of how my comments are taken, as I think of them, at the spur of the writing moment. And probably the effect of my long ter m salvage/recycle (and maybe improvise) mindset, also. This isn't the firs t time I've thought of a way to do something, only to realize there is a be tter, more simple way. Oftentimes, my first thoughts, this way, amounts t o creating more work, for myself, than is required.

I'm now realizing, simply, the hand plane is the best suggestion, after all .

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Sonny wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

I kind of figured you did, but there's an awful lot of people who don't realize that 20 minutes or so with a file and an old saw, and you have something far better than any new saw (I didn't realize myself how easy it was, until the first time I tried).

That's another one where, if you've never done it, you don't realize how quick & easy it is to make a small roundover. And for a fence it doesn't even matter if there's small facets, nature will smooth them fast enough.

John

Reply to
John McCoy

With the router in a table setup easily accomplished, I have done it.

Reply to
Markem

, at the spur of the writing moment. And probably the effect of my long t erm salvage/recycle (and maybe improvise) mindset, also. This isn't the fi rst time I've thought of a way to do something, only to realize there is a better, more simple way. Oftentimes, my first thoughts, this way, amounts to creating more work, for myself, than is required.

I do that as well. On occasion I do make things harder than they need to b e, especially when trying to salvage a tool, salvage materials, etc.

I don't do it now, but I would sit and work on a 20 year old drill for an h our taking it apart to replace brushes and bearings and trigger. I had to get them out of the drill as I couldn't order parts for it without the numb ers on the part since the drill had been out of production for so long. Co st of trigger: $48. Cost of brushes: $15. Cost of bearings: $30. New par ts: $93. Plus an hour to take it apart, 2 hours total with travel to the Milwaukee service center, and an hour or more (depending on the bearing ins tall) to complete the task. Cost of a new Milwaukee with a warranty, new mo tor and no muss, no fuss: about $100.

Years ago I was also prone to use whatever I had on hand to work on project s, salvage being part of that. Sometimes working around defects in materia l is just too time consuming to be worthwhile. It seems like you should be saving money, and as Depression Era parents taught me, you are doing the r ight thing. I just doesn't always work that way, though. In hindsight, is seems to rarely work well for me.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

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