Is there any practical way of doing this? I have 160± pieces of 1"x6"x42"
boards. Hem fir.
Is finger jointing possible in the home shop. Willing to pay for some
tooling. Could a commercial place 'fingerjoint' this for me for a price
that would be less than buying equivalent amount of lumber. BTW, I live in
the Northwest, we have some lumber mills nearby.
BTW, 15 years ago I cut 3000 l.f. of custom moulding for a re-model that I
was doing. Still have the Foley Belsaw moulder. At that time a lumber
supplier was able to get me finger joint (not door jamb) 1" primed paint
grade lumber for a very attractive price. Finger joint has no knots, does
not warp (every other piece is flip-flopped) and is great to work with.
Sure beats the mdf which turns to dust when you shape it.
Thanks for ideas,
There are fingerjoint router bits sold for just this purpose.
That's a good size, but not a good wood, for fence pickets.
It seems they'd also be good for some 20" x 20" x 40" six
board blanket boxes, toy chests etc. They'd use about 20
boards each with very little left over. With Careful resawing
and planing you could get two 1/4" boards from each and
use them for drawer sides.
I had thought softwood too soft for drawers and runners but
recently re-finished my Mother's pine nightstand. 60 +
years old, been chewed on by dogs and run over a few
times by my Dad on his scooter and still sturdy as hell,
as is the nightstand.
You could also use a lock miter router/shaper bit as well. Just route
both board ends flat/horizontal and flip them... just like the funger
joint in that manner, but offers greater utility...
unless you plan on doing a lot of this joining, then a fingerjoint
cutter may be the best option.
Try a birds tongue joint which you can cut on the table saw. It makes a
very strong joint that is attractive. The down side is that it uses up
a little more of the length to form the long tapered joint.
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