Routing long lengths

...or, as when I had to fab some fence caps that I couldn't find a match for (damned cats, and their claws!)...

Piece of 18mm ply (random offcut from the shed), cut a ?..30mm? hole through which the router collet would sit, then fix the router base plate to the ply (4 screws, if I recall correctly, on my Makita), then set the depth of plunge, lock it, invert it, bit of 4x2 running the length on the underside allowed it to be locked into two workmates.

t'other side, nice flat ply to fit any form you like (eg. some 2x2 batterns screwed in as a guide)

I used that arrangement to run off several 3 metre lengths of capping without any drama.

Mike ... if I have followed your guide (pun intended) ... it would be something like :

If this merely taking the arris off, would a hand plane not do the job quite adequately?

My favoured way would be a lightweight router (the Bosch palm router for 125 at Axminster is really nice and the tilting base is surprisingly useful) and taking it to the work.

Otherwise make up a table and clamp it to the Workmate. You need a thin board in the middle as a mount, then an L-section MDF fence that swings (easier than sliding) for depth adjust. Even easier is a ten- quid Happy Shopper Workmutt and throw the old top right away and dedicate the legs to being a router table. Takes you an afternoon to make and well worth it.

Don't buy a 50 quid table, they're too small.

now that is a good idea.....

Cheers JimK

Part maniac? Complete maniac IMO.

You can make a 'safer' router table from scrap for a job like that. Bit of

I just want to put a neat 'shape' on the leading corner ... would be difficult to keep the angle consistent along the 2m length with a hand plane (or at least thought it would be)

can you explain more about "then an L-section MDF fence that swings (easier than sliding) for depth adjust."

not sure what you are describing.

I already have a few different tops I use on my workmate ... so another is not a problem.

not following this bit, if fixed at one end wouldn't the fence then be at angle rather that straight ? ......... or am I missing a concept here ?

The cutter is round....

With a circular saw the fence has to be exactly parrallel to the blade - because the blade has a 'flat' side. With a router cutter, there isn't anything for the fence to be parrallel to - because the cutter is circular.

So, if you mark a line & cut a hole for the cutter, the fence just has to pivot on this line at one end. Because the cutter is circular all is well.

Hard to explain.

I struggled with make-shift router tables - usually old worktop with a n'ole in it - for years. Finally I built a proper router table. I now find it almost impossible to undertake any wood project without using it for something. It doubles as a storage cabinet for my power tools, bits and things.

That being said, make yourself a make-shift table.

R.

given me some ideas there .. Thnx

Think I follow it now .... does make you wonder why all the commercial router tables go to bother of parallel fences ?

car to put up some details or pictures .... we could end up with a composite 'best in class' d-i-y table here

I made one just like this (but didn't buy the plans!)

wouldn't it be nice if you could get these in UK: