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Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material .. is jointing on a router
table, using split fences a good option ??", I thin you would have
gotten more favorable responses. As soon as you called it a "ripping"
operation, folks got all weird on you.
Use your router table with the offset fences .. use the largest bit you
can swing .. use featherboards or at least guide blocks .. use
reasonable caution .. all should be well.
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Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material .. is jointing on a router
table, using split fences a good option ??", I thin you would have
gotten more favorable responses. As soon as you called it a "ripping"
operation, folks got all weird on you.<br>
<br>
Use your router table with the offset fences .. use the largest bit you
can swing .. use featherboards or at least guide blocks .. use
reasonable caution .. all should be well.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote cite="mid:4bffa16f$0$6528$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com"
type="cite">
<blockquote type="cite">I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down
by about 1/4". This is
<br>
your basic home-center baseboard.
<br>
<br>
I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
<br>
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
<br>
remove the ~1/4".
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</blockquote>
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Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
Is that not still a rip cut?
(not arguing)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
...
That's some thick TS blade (like a dado set w/ a 1/4" width)... :)
Even a standard kerf would leave sliver.
The difference imo is that a 1/4" is quite a hogging operation w/ any
router leading to the possibility of splitting ahead of the cut if try
it in a single pass or requiring at least two passes whereas a sawing
operation does it in one. If there's only a piece or two to do, no real
problem; if talking about a whole houseful of baseboard, that gets to be
a sizable amount of effort...
--
Substitute 1/8" if it gets you past the metal block. :-)
Using a good, sharp bit and a strong router, going in the proper direction
(downhill grain), shouldn't even make you think twice about taking
off 1/4".
I see guys at the woodworking shows, demonstrating their panel bits, who
run the entire profile at once and the cut is clean as a whistle.
I suppose if you're using a little $99 router and a 5 bucks straight
bit, you'd have to sneak up on a 1/4."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
In this case, he's no control over grain; he's got to take it off the
bottom edge and run in direction of feed. Only alternative is to have
two setups to feed from opposite bit sides which adds even more pita
factor the operation.
Sure, it _CAN_ be done; I just don't think it's the best/easiest by far
unless it's only a few pieces...
$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ...
--
I guess I was thinking if the grain is running up hill when sitting
wall-side down, flip the trim piece end to end so it's sitting wall-side
up and the grain will be running downhill.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I just did that but there was a small offcut. And that was with a
full-width januwine HF chiwanese carbide blade, too! My Freud Diablo
came yesterday and I'm going to install it and try it out over the
weekend. It's a thin-kerf job.
Yes, it's a rip.
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I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
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Did I ever say that ?? ?? ?? I don't think so !! !! !!
From WIKIPEDIA : In woodworking
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking>, a *rip cut* is a cut made
parallel to the wood grain <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_grain>.
Rip cuts are commonly made with a table saw
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_saw>, but other types of saws can
also be used, including hand <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw> rip
saws <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw>, radial arm saws
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_arm_saw> and band saws
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_saw>.
Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to a
rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can
certainly NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't
meet the criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave
you a piece of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head
to the router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation
mandates a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be
done with some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck .. I
don't care if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will result
in a narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped to get there.
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<blockquote cite="mid:htpcc6$uff$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org"
type="cite">
<blockquote type="cite">No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4"
on a jointer .. .. just
<br>
semantics.
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?
<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
Did I ever say that ?? ?? ?? I don't think so !! !! !!<br>
<br>
From WIKIPEDIA : In <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking"
title="Woodworking">woodworking</a>, a <b>rip cut</b> is a cut made
parallel to the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_grain"
title="Wood grain">wood grain</a>. Rip cuts are commonly made with a <a
href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_saw" title="Table saw">table
saw</a>, but other types of saws can also be used, including <a
href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw" title="Hand saw">hand</a>
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw" title="Rip saw">rip saws</a>,
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_arm_saw"
title="Radial arm
saw">radial arm saws</a> and <a
href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_saw" title="Band saw"
class="mw-redirect">band saws</a>.<br>
<br>
Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to
a rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can
certainly NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't
meet the criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave
you a piece of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head
to the router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation
mandates a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be
done with some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck ..
I don't care if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will
result in a narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped
to get there.<br>
<br>
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I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
description.
So I would think the only confusion would be from inexperienced
woodworkers, whose advice one probably wouldn't want. Nor from people
who would get "weird" on someone asking for advice but not use the exact
terminology you prefer.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Man, have you ever misinterpreted what I wrote !! !! !!
I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all .. .. I was kinda being
apologetic for all the silly controversy he got as responses. I mean
.. kickbacks & finger-removing problems .. gimme' a break already.
re: "I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all"
BTW...I took it like you meant it. We're good! :-)
You'll also noticed I put the words "rip" in quotes cuz I knew it
wasn't really a "rip".
Of all the tools I have, a jointer is not amongst the group, so asking
about using a router as a jointer wasn't something that came to mind.
Anyway, as I was loading up the tools to come to Dad's house, I
remembered that I still have my old Hirsch Saw Table from 20(?) years
ago buried in the back of the shed. Long ago I put a piece of plywood
on top and have used it as a portable work bench on occasion.
I threw it in the van, but I'm not sure if the mounting plate is
intact or if my PC left-hand circular saw will mount to it. I was
going to clamp the router table to it, but maybe I'll take the plywood
off and see if I can make it work as a table saw.
PS It's only about 15 feet worth.
Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
care of that!
JAG ;~)
On Sat, 29 May 2010 08:28:31 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
Setting up a plane for use as a/on a shooting board, _and_ performing
the work, wouldn't have taken as long to set up than his posting has
so far. ;)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm #51-52
---------------------------------------------------
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
---------------------------------------------------
Absolutely. It's one of the longest-lived bookmarks in my browser, and I still
refer to it
all the time. Patrick really should turn this site into a bona-fide book.
--
What percentage of the driving populace do you suppose actually
understands the rules of engagement at a four-way stop?
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