I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down the
centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of cross
cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
Assuming that I use a sharp new blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my questions
are: Since the pieces are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real
problem? Secondly, since I will only have 1" between the blade and the
fence at setup, would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback will
probably be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year so I
am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather dust......
I probably would feel better if I could install an inexpensive splitter.
Any thoughts appreciated.
-Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
First off, you realize that you will not end up with 2, 1"x24" pieces if you
rip a 2"x24" down the center line. Remember that the blade will remove
Bick back can happen but you can safely rip these lengths if you use a push
stick. I prefer the type push stick that also holds the board down about 8"
in front of the back end of the board. Basically it also holds the wood
down in addition to pushing the wood.
You can get a good inexpensive splitter, $14.95, to be used with a zero
clearance insert here:
Buck, Do not panic. Ripping is simple with a properly setup saw. For the
size you are ripping, definitely us a push stick. When ripping a 1" wide
piece, use a 3/4" wide with a deep overreach.
These can be made very easily from scrap.
For this king of ripping, I would suggest the blade should be higher than
the depth of the cut by 1/2" or so. This is a highly subjective number and
that I'm sure will be discussed ad nauseum.
At that part size, and production volume, I'd find a bandsaw to use. Even
if it were a friend's, or one at an adult ed school. Feels safer, wastes
less wood, never kicks back, etc.
You're the fellow making the musical instrument flutes, right? What part
of the country are you in?
-patriarch..... Yes I'm that guy..... trying my hand (and fingers) in making
some Native American flutes..... Might work out and then again maybe not. I
never liked ripping wood in the past but did manage. Since this is 2" stock
it will be a little trickier. The overall length is only 24 inches and I
think it should be manageable - but just wanted to touch base with the
people on this board who are the experts..... like yourself!
Thanks for input..... I am living in CO
As far as I know, the traditional Indian methods didn't
use table saws, bandsaws, routers, or box core bits, buck.
Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician!
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
You'll get beter replies form the excellent people here, but what I
do, strictly for safety, is to use longer pieces, and cut to just past
the marked length. Then gently raise the wood from the saw [or turn
off first], and crosscut to get the length. It's a bit of waste, but
I usually find other uses ...toaster tongs etc., and get to keep my
Re kickback: use a suitable hold-down system.
Make yourself a "push board" that covers the entire length
of the short pieces. Somthing along the lines of a 2x6 or
2x8 with a small cleat glued on the bottom edge back corner.
This will allow you to have complete forward and downward
pressure during the cut. Keep the blade just above the cut
and let it cut directly into the "push board". It will allow
"total control" with little exposure to the blade.
WELL.... HERE IS WHAT I DID. I ripped 2 black walnut, 2 maple, and 1
cherry. I used two push boards/sticks and took my time to be careful. In
fact I took so much time that I burned most all of them.....LOL. I am
looking at this as a learning experience and hopefully will get better as
time goes on and I continue to buy more new blades. I would suggest you all
buy stock in Home Depot. I didn't experience any kickback problems. I did
notice that when I was half way through a couple of pieces that the leading
edge wanted to start coming up off the table but I just pressed harder at
the trailing edge and that seemed to take care of it. Any suggestions for
10 inch blades in the $20-30 range??
-Thanks to everyone for you comments and suggestions. Over and Out!
I'm spoiled. I have the grip-tite magnetic featherboards with a the
grip-tite steel fence face. I could do what you need confidently with
no fear of kick back using this system. I had too many near misses
trying to do narrow rips with a push stick. The suggestions already
posted for pushstick design are good. But I don't believe any pushstick
can firmly hold and guide the wood like the grip-tite system. I also
found that my cuts were more consistently accurate because the system
pulls the wood tight against the fence as it feeds.
By the way, I also have two GRRRippers and they work well with small
pieces but the grip-tites are superior for ripping narrow pieces 24
The Grip Tites are really nice, but think push BLOCK, not STICK.
I do narrow ripping with an MDF or plywood block that looks just like
a 12" long jointer push block. This block has a handle attached to
the top, a 1/4" MDF or wood lip on the back edge, and strips of a $1
Staples mouse pad glued to the bottom, rubber towards the work.
The blade is raised 1/8" higher than the thickness of the wood. The
mouse pad and rear hook are considered sacrificial. The block holds
the work down and against the fence.
Using this method, I've ripped perfect 1/8" strips from a 1/4" thick
Did I mention the tool cost less than $2?
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.