It's mostly a matter of the wrong blade. 3/8" is a bit narrow for resawing,
and 10tpi is definitely too fine. You'd be much better off with a 1/2" 3tpi
blade. You probably don't have enough tension on the blade, either, and you
may be feeding the stock too fast -- but start with a blade that's better
suited to resawing, then experiment with tension and feed rates.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
As the others have mentioned, a wider blade would be good but your
biggest problem is tooth count. 10 TPI is way to many teeth in the cut.
It will make you have to push to hard and that leads to deflection.
Try a narrower blade and not worrying about the tension so much.
Ideally you'd have a 3" blade and plenty of tension (like the Hitachi
resaw machine) However you can't do this - a typical hobbyist-market
14" machine can't tension anything over 1/2". It'll track a 5/8", maybe
even a 3/4", but the available tension / cross section is falling off
so much by this time that the resaw performance is actually getting
worse -- particularly you'll see barrelling.
If you go _narrower_, then the blade tends to bow _backwards_ instead
of sideways. Not perfect, but better than a barrelled cut.
But really, to resaw 5 1/2", you just want something with bigger wheels
and more frame.
Of course they do, so long as the saw frame's up to the job. Working
with typical 14" machines, it isn't. The surprising thing is that going
narrower can deliver a better performance. I'd like to claim credit for
this innovation, but I can't -- I'm just lifting it straight out of
Duginske. It works though.
Now go and try it before you give your sarcastic response. It's not
perfect, but it "works" and it's certainly an improvement on typical
Suffolk has .025 3/4 that works beautifully, and I've used a lot of
different blades. It has a tooth pattern which differs from their normal,
and the teeth do not appear to have been flame hardened. It's listed as an
AS-S with a 5-raker set
Not to mention a 20% off sale until the end of the year on any five blades.
Some personal experience re: wider is better.
I've got the Laguna Tools LT16SEC bandsaw - 2.5 hp TEFC
220/240 V motor, originally with the Euro guides, now with
LT's ceramic guides.
When I got the saw I also ordered a 1" and 1 1/4" wide blade
for it, intending to do some resawing at or close to the saw's
max throat capacity of a tad over 12". Figured, like Doug, that
Wider Is Better.
Here's what I quickly discovered
1. unfolding a 130" one inch wide, or wider, bandsaw blade is
FREAKIN' SCARY. I went with the Take It Out In the Yard,
Throw It and Run Like Hell In The Opposite Direction
2. getting a big wide blade on the bandsaw wheels and between
the guides is not a whole lot of fun since it wants to stay
round and you're trying to make it into sort of a tight
oval while attempting to keep its teeth from removing
parts of your skin.
3. some blade guides won't accomadate a wide blade
4. even with "low tension" blades, tensioning a 1 - 1 1/4"
blade is not easy on the bandsaw tension spring, frame
- or bearings. The tension spring is also supposed to
be a shock absorber. If you bottom it out and hit a
hard knot or the like, the impact goes right to your
bearings which is not good for them or the shaft they
are riding on.
5. though even an eighth of an inch blade can do a lot of
damage in an instant, having the larger, nastier looking
teeth on a 1 - 1 1/4" blade spin up is somehow a LOT
6. with twice as much blade area in the cut and the very little
set of the teeth on a resaw blade, there's more surface
area in the wood - getting gunked up and generating friction
- the latter having to be overcome by pushing harder AND
heating things up in the cut.
So, from my personal experience resawing, including slicing
less than 1/16th inch thick veneer off of 6-8" cherry, walnut,
spruce, redwood, elm, sycamore and ipe (don't bother with IPE)
- a 1/2" wide, 3 tpi, hook tooth blade works just fine - assuming
a) it's sharp
b) it's tensioned "just enough" (see Flutter Tensioning Method
in my earlier post)
c) your table is square to the blade
d) your fence is square to the table
e) your fence is set to the blade's drift/lead line
f) you feed at the rate the blade will cut well, or
just a little slower
g) you're not cutting "reactive"/ "case hardened" wood
Michael Fortune, a great Canadian woodworker, uses his
bandsaw a lot, preferring to use it to rip boards rather
than use a table saw. He does a lot of thick veneer slicing
and laminate work. He recomends inexpensive, 1/2", 3 tpi
hook tooth blades and changes blades at the first hint of
dullness or friction. And by inexpensive, he's talking $8-$10
blades, which he sends out for resharpening and buys them
in 10 packs.
Now when you think about it, the teeth on the blade are
getting the same wear, be they on a 1/2" blade or a 2"
blade. they'll both dull at about the same rate. So when
one gets dull, will you replace the $10 to $20 blade sooner
than you would a $40-$60 blade?
In some cases, wider is better, or so one auto maker says.
When it comes to resawing wood - It Ain't So!
waiting for Doug's response/ comments on my specific
I had to laugh at this one. I had a friend who had a small metal fabrication
shop with a heavy duty, cut off band saw that could cut through thick steel.
And he unfolded his bandsaw blades the exact same way as you described
above. He considered it the most dangerous job in his shop.
I always thought this would be a good video for AFV. Something about grown
men fleeing in fear is funny to watch.
It's not "fleeing in fear", it's "taking all reasonable precautions"
"due diligence". I adopted this wide bandsaw opening technique after
watching a sawyer with a BIG WoodMizer type bandsaw do it as a
matter of course. You really have to witness a bandsaw blade this
size unfurl - the loud TWANG! noise sticks in your head - forever.
I forgot to specify that when using this method, you should take
the normal precautions folks in the explosive field use including
the siren and flashing red lights to warn anyone within range to
clear the site or get in a bunker. Also recomend yelling Fire In
The Hole, Fire In The Hole, Fire In The Hole rather than yelling
Five, Four, Three, Two, One before hruling that sucker - wearing
thick leather gloves of course. Found that going with The
Count Down tended to attract accountants and other bean
counters onto the range and they're hard to get rid of.
I didn't mean to appear to be suggesting that wider is better, without limit.
However, the OP was trying to resaw with a 3/8" blade, IIRC, and having
problems -- and a certain individual's advice that he should try to fix those
problems by going to a blade which is even narrower doesn't make any sense at
all. Particularly on the grounds that he offered, namely that a narrower blade
will deflect backward instead of barrelling -- the narrower the blade, the
less its resistance to deflection in *all* directions. The objective should be
to reduce deflection, not encourage it.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Andy, just a comment here but I'm so far not having any trouble resawing 6
inch wide stock with my nice shiny new 14" Craftsman. Doesn't have any
trouble shaving 1/16" veneer off of quina (Janka side hardness 2200,
almost twice that of white oak, not quite in the concrete-with-leaves
category but getting there) which is the hardest thing I've cut with it
successfully so far--I did mess up a piece of cebil (well into concrete
with leaves territory) but I screwed that up by the numbers--not the saw's
fault. If it will handle that kind of stuff, ordinary temperate-zone woods
shouldn't be giving it any trouble.
I wouldn't want to put _more_ than a half inch blade in it--but it handles
the half-inch just fine.
If I was doing resawing all day every day I'd want more saw, but for me
for now it's quite adequate.
IMO, considering the way Craftsman is regarded by the community as a whole
and considering what I'm cutting with it, anybody having trouble resawing
6 inch wide stock with any decent quality 14" band saw needs to look more
at his setup than at getting a bigger saw.
On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 03:00:25 +0000, J. Clarke wrote:
While it wasn't a very long piece, I can report now that it goes right
through 5-1/2 inch wide lignum vitae. Taking 1/32 off in the planer
cleaned it right up. Seemed to have less trouble with that than the
quina in fact. Gonna have to rip another piece tomorrow though--the resaw
wasn't any trouble at all but I cut the bloody piece too short--trust
me to get the hard part right and screw up the easy one.
The saw is definitely better than I am right now.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.