I own a grizzly "ultimate" 14" bandsaw, and have tried on a few
ocassions to resaw with terrible success. I've tried with and without
fence. Last night I tried to resaw a 5 1/2 wide piece of Walnut. Like
the other times, the blade winds up bowing pretty dramatically during
the cut giving me two cupped boards of varying thicknesses that are
virtually useless. Does this seem to be a matter of technique or
setup??? (I'm using a 3/8 bladeabout 10TPI I guess)
Sounds like insufficient tension. If you're using a 3/8" blade set the
tension to the mark for 1/2" as a starting point. If it's the factory
blade consider spending the 30 bucks for a half-inch woodslicer
Don't force it, let it go at its own pace--try for a steady rate instead
If you don't have "The Bandsaw Book" by Lonnie Bird or "Band Saw Handbook"
by Mark Duginske you might want to pick up one or the other or both. Both
have good sections on resawing and on picking blades for the purpose.
I'll second the suggestion for a Woodslicer -- HEARTILY! I was having
trouble resawing oak (that I felled in my own backyard) with my Delta
14" BS with the blade it came with. I switched to a Woodslicer and it
"Trust me, there is NO way to nonchalantly conceal the fact that you have a
power tool in your head, no matter what you do." -- El Gato
I've been using Timberwolf blades. How do they compare with
I seem to recall that Timberwolf blades claim to be properly tensioned
with less tension than indicated with the scale on the bandsaw.
However it happens, for me, my resaws all run beautifully with a 1/2"
3 tpi Timberwolf blade on my Delta 14" bandsaw.
It always comes down to a good blade with sharp teeth.
On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 02:50:15 +0000, George Max wrote:
Don't really know. I'm still waiting for the Olsens that I got with my
saw to wear out <grin>. They're working fine but when I wear out the half
inch I'll probably go for a Woodslicer. If it works better than the Olsen
it has to be phenomenal.
Yep. And properly tensioned--was going to cut three slices out of a piece
of cebil tonight and only got one the thickness I needed because I forgot
to set the tension.
Timberwolf is a mediocre blade at an above-mediocre price.
Woodslicer is an outstanding blade at a premium price
Olsen is a very good blade at a reasonable price.
Olsen is the blade I use from day to day. Woodslicer is the blade that use when
I need a really perfect resaw. Timberwolf is a blade I won't bother buying
(I have a 14" Delta BS)
As always, YMMV
To reply by e-mail, use jcarlson631 at yahoo dot com
I bought one Timberwolf blade. I will never buy another. If a company
can't even get the welded ends aligned properly, there is no point in
continuing. I should just throw the blade away as I doubt I will ever use
I had an old FWW out yesterday and there was an article that applied.
Specifically, the bandsaw resaw blade test (M/A '04) Woodslicer came out on
top with a 3-4 tpi hook blade. It was the *only* blade that scored an
excellent in the smoothness test. The value blade was BC saw at $10. The
Olson MVP was right behind the Woodslicer.
FWIW, YMMV, etc, etc, etc....
The latter, mostly. Need wider blade and more tension for resawing.
Larger is better, also skip-tooth designed for resaw will help. The
larger blade will also minimize the need for really high tension.
That's true, but what I was driving at was that the need to
over-tension a narrower blade is alleviated by the heavier/wider blade
since they're stiffer.
I noted while in the libarary ( :) ) after the previous post the
Grizzly catalog rates the 14" guy as able to handle a 3/4" blade --
whether it has the strength as some other poster noted to adequately
tension it or not, I don't know as don't have a Grizzly, but would
_assume_ so as Grizzly gear typically will do what they say it
will...as a compromise, the 1/2" skip-tooth would probably be good
place to start...
My HF 14" with a riser kit has had a 3/4" blade on it since the day I
got the riser kit installed.
If a HF saw will handle it, it seems likely that just about any other
would. After all, they almost all cost more than the HF saw.
Sounds like a set-up problem. Beam strength on a 3/8ths blade may be an
issue, and you might try different tooth profiles. I get good results
with a 1/2 inch hook-type blade with around 5-6 TPI. Check your blade
guides and bearings for proper positioning, and blade tension, also.
I would say setup. I have a similar 14" Grizzly and it has worked well
for oak and pine, but I have used a resaw blade (grizzly's 1/2" 3TPI).
Generally wider and fewer teeth for resawing but our 14" saws probably
can't tension a blade wider than 1/2". Get Lonnie Bird's Bandsaw
book if you need more details. He recommends 6-12 teeth in the
material (5.5" * 10 TPI = 55 teeth in your setup) and says that bowing
is most likely a result of too little tension. Get the right blade and
go slow and I'll bet you'll be happy with the results!
Don't forget to wear a dust mask!
Try a blade few fewer TPI. Also note that some brand blades perform
better than others. I had the same problem when I first got my Grizzly
G1019 (with the riser kit). Originally I was using Grizzly's 1/2" - 3
TPI blade. Dumping the Grizzly blade and using a Suffolk Timberwolf
1/2" - 3 TPI blade solved my problem.
- 3 tpi
- SHARP, clean blade (a blade with gunk on it or dull is ok I guess
for rough cutting - but just barely )
- tensioned properly (tTry the "flutter method" for tensioning.
Expose as much of the blade as you can. Tension as you
normally have done. Turn on the saw. If the blade is
fluttering - add tension 'til it stops fluttering. If it isn't
fluttering - reduce tension 'til it starts to flutter then
add just enough tension to stop the flutter. Keep your
body parts well away from the exposed blade!)
- hook tooth -deeper gullet for sawdust space while in the wood
- proper feed rate, erring on the side of slower rather than faster
- guides set within a dollar bill's thickness of blade
- a fence that is square to the table and adjusted for blade
"drift/lead" (you can try and follow a line on the board but
even with a "single point of contact guide", you're apt to wander.
Decent fence will eliminate or greatly reduce one source of error)
My bet on the source of the problem
- not enough blade tension
- too many tpi
- gullets not deep enough to hold the sawdust "out of the way"
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