I've decided on this bandsaw and my W has approved the purchase, angel that she is. Before I buy it and find out after the fact, it looks to me like direct from Grizzly is the best deal:
$375 + $40 shipping = $415
6" riser kit is $49.95Does anyone know of a better deal on this saw before I pull the trigger? Or coupons or anything else I should know.
Thanks
how close to a warehouse? AMAZING some times the 'sales' in the closeout room... the scratched and dented...but, I live close to one of the warehouses, too
--Shiva--
It has some nice features, but I must be honest in that if I had it to do over again, it would be a tough decision between that and the G1019 which I owned before. I chose the G0555 simply because of the blade tensioning release and the fence. The roller bearing guides is not something I like as well as I had thought and I really can't imagine using the slower speed.
The G1019 just seemed to be beefier and it worked perfectly. I don't regret the G0555 but I am saying there are others worth considering.
Don
Don, I looked at that model. For $60 more, I think the extra HP and the much better fence are worth it.
Incidentally, in response to the other suggestion, I'm over 800 miles away from a showroom.
Which model are you refering to for the extra $60? The 17" is G0513-HP and the 19" is G0514-2HP.
In a similar thread Robert Smith wrote... (paste below) =============
I live just outside Harrisburg, Pa. about 2 months ago I drove up to Muncy to get the 17" Grizzly Band saw. If you get a chance you have to get to one of their show rooms. Man that place is packed full of machinery. They have all their bandsaws lined up in a row. And I was very very very tempted to go with the 19" instead of the 17". I was actually tempted to go with the 16" and the cast iron wheels but, I needed the extra depth of cut. I was some what concerned about the aluminum wheels on the 17" but I decided to give it a try, so I ended up with the 17".
Took it home, uncrated it, wiped off all the cosmoline. Assembled it, stuck a 220 plug on the end of it. Put a 1" wide 2tpi blade on it, line up the rip fence straight with the miter slot. Stuck a 4' long rough cut oak
2x8 on edge against the fence. Oops the board had a bow, so I stuck my 6ft. level against the fence and held the board against that, so both its ends hit the level. Cut about 1/4" off at the end, 3/4 off at the middle. The thing cut like butter, pushed as fast as I was comfortable with. No problems. After I got the first side straight, I laid that down on the table and took a cut along the 2" way just to straighten things up. Then stood it back up on the 2" width, set the fence to 13/16 and cut the board. The blade seemed to cut in toward the fence about 1/16 so I checked the blade guides again. (I didn't get the ball bearing guides, I liked the ones that came on the saw better). I adjusted the guides, and cut the rest of the 2x8 into 13/16 strips. It cut great and very straight. I made a sled for it, and actually use it to cut basket handle blanks, (1x3/16x48 long), out of oak, ash, and hickory that I cut off my wood lot with no problems at all. I normally use 4ft. long logs, but I have rigged up supports so I can cut longer logs also. They have a horizontal saw mill also, but it's way past my budget. Also I got a couple 1/8" wide blades for it, and they are great for cutting stuff I used to have to use the scroll saw for. As far as I could tell the 19" is built identical to the 17" so I am sure you will be very happy with it. I know a number of people don't like Grizzly, but I haven't had any trouble with anything I have gotten from them. I have been a machinist for 26 years, and figure if anything is to far off, I can just make a new part. I have yet to have to do that with any machine from Grizzly. Now if you want to talk Crapsman, that's a whole nuther story. I had a Crapsman wood lathe, that I milled a complete new head stock for. What ever shit metal they made it out off, the bearings kept loosing up. I kept boring out the hole larger and larger and getting bigger bearings for in it. I even made a steel bushing that I started pressing the bearings into. But the base metal kept wearing big. So I finally just made a new headstock. Anyway have fun with your new bandsaw.Sorry repost hit the wrong button before complete message...
Which model are you refering to for the extra $60? The 17" is G0513-HP and the 19" is G0514-2HP.
I'm trying to make up my mind which one to buy. I believe Robert Smith wrote in an earlier post, both models have aluminum wheels. My question, will I be able to resaw 6/4 or 8/4 hard maple or red oak? That is my main concern.
Robert Smith wrote in... Subject: Was, "Surprising Review - Chinese Delta 14" Bandsaw 28-206/276
=============
I live just outside Harrisburg, Pa. about 2 months ago I drove up to Muncy to get the 17" Grizzly Band saw. If you get a chance you have to get to one of their show rooms. Man that place is packed full of machinery. They have all their bandsaws lined up in a row. And I was very very very tempted to go with the 19" instead of the 17". I was actually tempted to go with the 16" and the cast iron wheels but, I needed the extra depth of cut. I was some what concerned about the aluminum wheels on the 17" but I decided to give it a try, so I ended up with the 17".
Took it home, uncrated it, wiped off all the cosmoline. Assembled it, stuck a 220 plug on the end of it. Put a 1" wide 2tpi blade on it, line up the rip fence straight with the miter slot. Stuck a 4' long rough cut oak 2x8 on edge against the fence. Oops the board had a bow, so I stuck my 6ft. level against the fence and held the board against that, so both its ends hit the level. Cut about 1/4" off at the end,
3/4 off at the middle. The thing cut like butter, pushed as fast as I was comfortable with. No problems. After I got the first side straight, I laid that down on the table and took a cut along the 2" way just to straighten things up. Then stood it back up on the 2" width, set the fence to 13/16 and cut the board. The blade seemed to cut in toward the fence about 1/16 so I checked the blade guides again. (I didn't get the ball bearing guides, I liked the ones that came on the saw better). I adjusted the guides, and cut the rest of the 2x8 into 13/16 strips. It cut great and very straight. I made a sled for it, and actually use it to cut basket handle blanks, (1x3/16x48 long), out of oak, ash, and hickory that I cut off my wood lot with no problems at all. I normally use 4ft. long logs, but I have rigged up supports so I can cut longer logs also. They have a horizontal saw mill also, but it's way past my budget. Also I got a couple 1/8" wide blades for it, and they are great for cutting stuff I used to have to use the scroll saw for. As far as I could tell the 19" is built identical to the 17" so I am sure you will be very happy with it. I know a number of people don't like Grizzly, but I haven't had any trouble with anything I have gotten from them. I have been a machinist for 26 years, and figure if anything is to far off, I can just make a new part. I have yet to have to do that with any machine from Grizzly. Now if you want to talk Crapsman, that's a whole nuther story. I had a Crapsman wood lathe, that I milled a complete new head stock for. What ever shit metal they made it out off, the bearings kept loosing up. I kept boring out the hole larger and larger and getting bigger bearings for in it. I even made a steel bushing that I started pressing the bearings into. But the base metal kept wearing big. So I finally just made a new headstock. Anyway have fun with your new bandsaw.
OK, the G0555 is the Ultimate 14" the GO1019 is the regular 14". They are $375 and $315 respectively. They do have aluminum wheels. From what I've read, the 555 will have no problem resawing hard maple or red oak. There was a post about one here a few weeks ago used for resawing.
Also, I've yet to read a bad review for this saw and it won an editors choice for Best New Tool.
Bruce,
Go ahead and get the BS. I have one and I have no complaints. The only thing I would change with it is to get a new blade (which I have yet to do).
Be careful, it is a heavy humbuck.
Mine runs nice and smooth and getting it zeroed in was not a problem.
Enjoy.
rik
Bruce -
Go with the G0555 - you really can't go wrong. I've had mine for almost a year and love it. I would recommend replacing the stock blade with a Timberwolf, and I also replaced the tensioning spring with one from Iturra Designs. Have resawed 6" walnut and maple with no problem using a 1/2" blade. Actually tried it with a 3/4" blade but for some reason the 1/2" worked better.
You WILL need help setting it up unless you happen to have a chain hoist handy, so plan ahead. You assemble the base but you have to lift the main housing and motor assembly on to p of it - about 200#.
Setup went well and had no surprises.
Good luck!
Vic
Vic, Where did you get the Iturra spring? I looked for it and all I can come up with is ones for Delta/Jet. Just curious as to which version it is.
I too have the G0555 and to date it's worked very well. I haven't put a decent blade on it yet so I anticipate it working even better. My fence/rails seems to ride about 1/4"-3/8" off of the table though with no way to adjust the rails down. Drives me a bit mad when cutting stock larger than the table as it rides on top of the rail and then when I'm near the end of the stock, I have to lower it off the rail down to the table.
I got the riser block but haven't yet installed it. Hence, no other blades purchased to date.
Cheers, cc
IFAIK, The 'JET' version fits most Taiwanese bandsaws. Measure and compare.
Greg G.
am having the same problem with the fence if anyone comes up with a solution I'd sure like to hear it.
KY
I set mine up by myself no problem, no chain hoist, but you know how us hillbillies are.
KY
I set mine up too by myself. No hoist etc.... Prolly wasn't the safest thing to do but it worked ok. Might ask for some help installing the riser block though!
As for the table/fence, got an email offline from a person saying there is another set of holes on the table, lower down. Use those and all should be well. In saying that, I've not had a chance to check it out. I don't seem to remember additional holes but could be wrong. Cheers, cc
I had the same problem, I found a 2nd set of holes in the table edge that cured the problem.
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